Meghan Hodges
Viscose is a human-made material that is often touted as a more sustainable alternative to cotton or polyester. However, the production of viscose has significant environmental and social drawbacks. The manufacturing process involves the use of hazardous chemicals, leading to air and water pollution, and the sourcing of wood pulp often results in deforestation and exploitation of natural resources, threatening biodiversity and local communities. In this paragraph, we will explore the environmental impact of viscose production and discuss the question: how much pollution does viscose produce?
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Chemicals used | Carbon disulfide, sodium hydroxide, sulfuric acid, hydrogen sulfide |
| Water usage | 30 tons of water to produce 1 ton of viscose |
| Emissions | 15 tons of harmful emissions per ton of viscose |
| Deforestation | 200 million trees logged per year, contributing to biodiversity loss and ecosystem disruption |
| Biodegradability | Slow biodegradation period of 20-200 years |
| Impact on communities | Pollution-related health issues, environmental degradation, human rights abuses, and land grabbing from Indigenous communities |
| Brands linked to polluting factories | Zara, H&M, Marks & Spencer, Tesco |
| Alternatives | Tencel Lyocell, Lenzing EcoVero, bamboo Lyocell, REFIBRA, Eastman Naia, Infinna, Circulose |
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What You'll Learn
Chemical pollution
The chemicals used in viscose production, such as carbon disulfide (or carbon disulphide), sodium hydroxide, and sulfuric acid, are notorious for their hazardous nature. Carbon disulfide, for instance, has been linked to nerve damage and psychiatric disorders, and an increased risk of coronary heart disease, birth defects, skin conditions, and cancer in both textile workers and those living near viscose factories.
The release of these toxic chemicals during production has severe environmental consequences. A 2017 report by the Changing Markets Foundation found that viscose products were being washed in river sources, causing extreme environmental damage and exposing communities that rely on these water sources to significant health risks. Investigators for the Foundation also discovered severe environmental damage, including water pollution from untreated contaminated waste and air pollution, in manufacturing sites in China, India, and Indonesia.
The demand for wood pulp in viscose production also contributes to deforestation, leading to a loss of biodiversity, disruption of natural habitats, and climate change acceleration.
However, it is important to note that there are more sustainable alternatives to conventional viscose production. For example, ECOVERO™ by Lenzing uses more sustainable wood from controlled sources, reduces water usage by 50%, and has half the carbon emissions when compared to traditional viscose production. Additionally, nearly all of the chemicals used during the fibre's production are recovered and reused. Other alternatives include TENCEL Lyocell, Modal, upcycled viscose, bamboo Lyocell, REFIBRA, and Eastman Naia.
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Water pollution
Investigations by the Changing Markets Foundation have uncovered severe environmental damage caused by viscose factories in China, India, and Indonesia, including water pollution from untreated contaminated waste. For example, in the province of Jiangxi in China, viscose production has been linked to the pollution of Poyang Lake, the country's largest freshwater lake, resulting in the death of aquatic life.
The viscose production process is chemically intensive, using toxic substances like carbon disulfide, sodium hydroxide, and sulfuric acid. These chemicals are released into the environment during production, impacting ecosystems and communities surrounding viscose factories. The high water consumption in viscose production, with approximately 30 tons of water required to produce one ton of viscose, exacerbates water scarcity issues in affected regions.
However, it is important to note that there are more sustainable alternatives to conventional viscose production. For instance, ECOVERO™, manufactured by Lenzing, uses 50% less water and has half the carbon emissions when compared to traditional viscose production. Lenzing also produces TENCEL Lyocell, a closed-loop system that uses certified renewable wood sources and eco-responsible production processes, reducing the environmental impact of viscose manufacturing.
Additionally, brands like Eileen Fisher are working with organizations like Canopy to ensure their viscose is sourced from responsibly managed and legally harvested forests, contributing to the development of recycled cellulose materials. These efforts demonstrate a growing awareness of the environmental impact of viscose production and a commitment to more sustainable practices within the industry.
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Deforestation
Viscose is a popular textile derived from wood pulp, specifically cellulose or plant-based pulp from trees like beech, eucalyptus, pine, soy, bamboo, and sugar cane. While it is often marketed as a sustainable alternative to synthetic fibres, the reality is that its manufacturing process is chemically intensive and harmful, leading to significant environmental and social drawbacks.
One of the key concerns associated with viscose production is deforestation. The demand for wood pulp, often sourced from ancient and endangered forests, results in significant deforestation, endangering wildlife, disrupting Indigenous communities, and leading to biodiversity loss. This is further exacerbated by unsustainable sourcing practices, with less than 30% of viscose production being sustainably sourced. The pressure from fast-fashion giants to produce clothing at increasingly faster speeds and cheaper costs encourages these unsustainable practices.
The environmental impact of deforestation for viscose production is far-reaching. It results in habitat loss, ecosystem imbalance, and climate change acceleration. For example, in Indonesia, home to 23% of the world's carbon-rich tropical peatlands, data showed that the highest deforestation risk in peatlands from 2015 to 2019 was linked to the pulp exports of the Royal Golden Eagle group, a major supplier to viscose manufacturers. This deforestation on peatlands releases significant amounts of CO2 into the atmosphere, contributing to greenhouse gas emissions.
However, there are efforts to address deforestation within the viscose supply chain. Canopy, an organization working with fashion brands and producers, estimates that around half of viscose production now comes from producers addressing the risks of sourcing from ancient and endangered forests. Additionally, innovative technologies, such as satellite monitoring, blockchain-based traceability, and AI-powered risk assessment, are being leveraged to combat deforestation and promote sustainable practices in the fashion industry.
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Human rights abuses
Although viscose is a plant-based fibre, the process of manufacturing it involves the use of toxic chemicals, excessive water usage, and unsustainable sourcing practices, which have been linked to severe environmental damage and human rights abuses.
The production of viscose has been associated with water and air pollution, severe health impacts on local communities, and unsafe working conditions for workers. Investigators for the Changing Markets Foundation visited manufacturing sites in China, India, and Indonesia, and found evidence of water pollution from untreated contaminated waste, and air pollution. Local people told investigators that water from their well is now undrinkable due to pollution. The Shandong Helon plant in China has faced criticism in the past for excessive emissions of air pollutants, with carbon disulphide levels in residential areas nearby to the factory three times higher than the permitted limit.
The toxic chemicals used in the production of viscose include sodium hydroxide (caustic soda), sulphuric acid, carbon disulfide, and hydrogen sulfide, which are released into the environment and contaminate air and water sources. These chemicals are linked to nerve damage and psychiatric disorders in humans. The pressure on manufacturers from fast-fashion giants to produce and distribute clothes at increasing speeds and cheaper costs encourages unsustainable social and environmental practices.
The demand for wood pulp in viscose production also leads to significant deforestation, endangering wildlife and disrupting Indigenous communities' livelihoods. The report by the Changing Markets Foundation also found evidence that viscose production has contributed to the pollution of China's largest freshwater lake, Poyang, killing aquatic life.
While viscose is biodegradable, the production process can lead to poor health outcomes for workers and significant air and water pollution. There are reports of human rights abuses in the viscose supply chain, including forced labor and unsafe working conditions. The social and environmental impacts of the viscose industry highlight the urgent need for sustainable practices, responsible sourcing, and reduced chemical use in production.
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Lack of transparency
The viscose supply chain is often criticised for its lack of transparency. Fashion brands that use viscose in their products are sometimes unaware of the environmental and social impacts of viscose production in their supply chain. This lack of transparency has raised serious concerns about the sustainability and ethicality of viscose production.
In 2017, an investigation by the Changing Markets Foundation revealed that popular fashion brands such as Zara, H&M, and Marks & Spencer were linked to highly polluting viscose factories in China, India, and Indonesia. These factories were found to be causing severe environmental damage, including water pollution from untreated contaminated waste and air pollution. The report also highlighted the impact of viscose production on local communities, with residential areas near the factories polluted with carbon disulfide levels three times higher than the permitted limit.
The problem is exacerbated by the pressure placed by fast-fashion retailers on manufacturers to produce and distribute clothes at increasingly faster speeds and lower costs. This encourages unsustainable social and environmental practices, as manufacturers cut corners to meet the demands of their clients.
To address these concerns, organisations like Canopy and the Changing Markets Foundation are advocating for more sustainable practices in the viscose industry. Canopy offers brands information on how to source viscose responsibly and provides a certification program to ensure that ancient and endangered forests are protected from destruction. The Changing Markets Foundation, on the other hand, is pushing for retailers and producers to take responsibility for the social and environmental impact of their practices.
While some progress has been made, with brands like Lenzing creating more sustainable viscose alternatives like ECOVERO, there is still a long way to go in terms of ensuring transparency and sustainability in the viscose supply chain.
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Frequently asked questions
Viscose production is a major contributor to pollution, with hazardous chemicals such as carbon disulfide, sodium hydroxide, and sulfuric acid contaminating air and water sources.
Viscose manufacturers are known to dump wastewater back into the environment, polluting waterways and killing aquatic life.
The use of hazardous chemicals in viscose production leads to the release of harmful emissions, contributing to air pollution and impacting ecosystems and communities near viscose factories.
The toxic chemicals used in viscose production have been linked to serious health conditions in humans, including nerve damage and psychiatric disorders. Local communities near viscose factories often suffer from pollution-related health issues.
Sustainable alternatives to viscose include Tencel Lyocell, Lenzing EcoVero, bamboo Lyocell, REFIBRA, and Eastman Naia. These alternatives use more sustainable wood sources, consume less water, and produce fewer emissions.
