Anti-Pollution Skincare: Does It Really Work?

Air pollution is a growing concern, and its effects on skin health are well documented. From hives to acne, premature ageing, and inflammatory skin conditions like eczema, the impact of air pollution on our skin is significant. As a result, the skincare industry has responded with a wave of anti-pollution products, but do they work? The term anti-pollution is unregulated, and dermatologists agree that there is a lack of research to support the claims of anti-pollution skincare products. However, certain ingredients in skincare products can protect the skin from environmental pollutants and their damaging effects. These include antioxidants like vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid, which have been shown to prevent pollution damage in lab settings. Moisturizers are also important, as they support the skin barrier, making it harder for pollutants to penetrate. So while the term anti-pollution may be more of a marketing strategy, specific ingredients and skincare routines can indeed help fortify the skin against pollution.

Does Anti-Pollution Skincare Work?

How does pollution harm the skin?

The skin is one of the primary targets of pollutants, which reach both the superficial and deeper skin layers by transcutaneous and systemic routes. Pollution can enter the body through the skin, much like it can through inhalation.

Airborne pollutants are agents that contaminate our environments and modify the natural atmosphere. They typically fall into two categories: gaseous, such as carbon monoxide, or heavy metals, such as lead. Gaseous pollutants like carbon monoxide, smog, and tobacco smoke contribute to free radicals that cause signs of premature aging.

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is another harmful environmental factor that affects skin biology. UVR contributes to photodamage on sun-exposed areas, accelerating the skin's aging process and increasing the risk of skin cancer. The depletion of the ozone layer due to global industrialization and ambient pollution allows a higher proportion of UVB irradiation to reach the Earth's surface, enhancing the risk of skin cancer.

Air pollutants can also affect the structure and function of the skin, leading to inflammatory skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, alopecia, and autoimmune skin diseases like cutaneous lupus erythematosus. They can lower natural antioxidant levels and create oxidative stress, making skin cells less efficient at repairing and reproducing new cells, including collagen and elastin tissue. This can result in common signs of aging, such as hyperpigmentation and wrinkles, and dry skin.

Additionally, particulate matter (PM) is among the most harmful pollutants. It is composed of very small particles and liquid droplets containing organic chemicals, acids, metals, and soil or dust particles. These particles can adhere to the skin's surface, reducing its barrier function and allowing transdermal penetration.

Which ingredients combat pollution?

While the term "anti-pollution" is not regulated in the skincare industry, certain ingredients in skincare products can protect the skin from environmental pollutants. These ingredients either prevent pollutants from entering the skin or repair damage caused by pollutants.

Antioxidants

Antioxidants are a powerful tool for combating the negative effects of pollution on the skin. They bind to free radicals before they can disrupt skin cell function. A 2020 study found that skincare antioxidants such as vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid prevented damage from pollution when applied regularly to skin cells in a lab setting. Astaxanthin is another antioxidant that is more potent than vitamin C and helps defend against external aggressors like pollution while also feeding your skin with nutrients.

Moisturizers

Since pollution can dry the skin, powerful moisturizers like hyaluronic acid and ceramides can help. Moisturizing also helps strengthen the skin barrier, making it harder for pollution to enter the body and cause oxidative stress.

Sunscreen

Sun exposure and pollution can cause free radical damage to the skin. UV rays can amplify the oxidative stress of some pollutants. Therefore, it is essential to use sunscreen every day. A mineral sunscreen with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide should be the last step in your daily morning skincare routine, as it is reflective and doesn't need to be absorbed into the skin to work.

Exfoliation

Exfoliation can also help protect the skin from pollution. Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) is an ingredient sometimes used in chemical peels that helps thicken the skin over time, improving its barrier function.

Do anti-pollution skincare products work?

The effectiveness of anti-pollution skincare products is a topic of debate, with some dermatologists arguing that there is insufficient independent research to support their benefits. However, numerous studies have established a link between pollution and various skin conditions, including acne, premature ageing, and inflammatory skin issues like eczema.

Pollution harms the skin by exposing it to free radicals, which are unstable molecules that destroy natural collagen and cause oxidization, leading to wrinkles, saggy skin, and hyperpigmentation. The loss of collagen and oxidative stress caused by free radicals can also result in fine lines, loss of elasticity, and dark spots.

To combat the negative effects of pollution, skincare products with anti-pollution benefits typically contain ingredients that protect the skin from environmental pollutants and support a healthy skin moisture barrier. These ingredients include antioxidants such as vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid, which have been shown to prevent damage from pollution in lab settings. Other beneficial ingredients include hyaluronic acid and ceramides, which help to moisturize the skin and strengthen the skin barrier, making it harder for pollutants to enter the body.

While the term "anti-pollution skincare" is unregulated, there are science-backed ingredients known to fight free radicals and support skin health. It is recommended to focus on specific ingredients that may help combat the effects of pollution, rather than solely relying on the "anti-pollution" label.

Additionally, it is important to note that skincare products are just one aspect of an effective anti-pollution skincare strategy. Other recommendations include encouraging skin regeneration through chemical peels or exfoliation with alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) to thicken the skin and improve its barrier function. Using sunscreen, specifically a mineral sunscreen with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, is also crucial as it reflects UV rays and protects the skin from sun damage.

How to create an anti-pollution skincare routine

Air pollutants like carbon monoxide, smog, cigarette smoke, and exhaust fumes can contribute to free radicals that cause signs of premature aging, pigmentation changes, and skin sensitivity. Thankfully, there are ways to protect your skin from pollution through a comprehensive skincare routine. Here are some steps to create an anti-pollution skincare routine:

Cleanse and Exfoliate

The first step in any skincare routine is cleansing. Look for a hardworking cleanser that can effectively target pollution particles left on the skin's surface. For best results, double cleanse and remove any makeup as soon as possible after being exposed to polluted environments. In addition to daily cleansing, incorporate regular exfoliation into your routine to prevent pollution buildup. Exfoliating a few times a week with a product containing PHA, glycolic acid, or apple cider vinegar can provide a deeper clean.

Serums and Antioxidants

Apply a serum after cleansing and exfoliating. Serums can provide hydration and help strengthen the skin barrier, making it harder for pollution particles to penetrate. Look for serums containing hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, or antioxidants. Antioxidants such as vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid can bind to free radicals before they disrupt skin cell function, preventing damage from pollution.

Moisturize

Introduce powerful moisturizers to combat the drying effects of pollution. Hyaluronic acid and ceramides can help hydrate the skin and strengthen the skin barrier. Moisturized skin acts as a stronger barrier against pollution and oxidative stress.

Sunscreen

Use sunscreen every day as the last step in your morning skincare routine. A mineral sunscreen with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide is reflective and does not need to be absorbed into the skin to be effective. Protecting your skin from UV rays is crucial, as sun exposure and pollution can combine to cause free radical damage.

Skin Regeneration

To repair existing skin damage caused by pollution, consider asking your dermatologist about chemical peels. Chemical peels can thicken the skin, making it more protective against environmental assaults. Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) is an ingredient used in chemical peels that can help improve the skin's barrier function over time.

While the term "anti-pollution" in skincare is not regulated, you can create an effective routine to combat the negative effects of pollution by focusing on specific ingredients and consistent skincare practices.

The origins of anti-pollution skincare

The skincare industry responded to this issue by introducing anti-pollution skincare products, which initially gained popularity in Asia, where large cities like Beijing face substantial air pollution challenges. These products aim to protect the skin from environmental pollutants and reduce their negative consequences.

The term "anti-pollution" in skincare is not regulated, and it is important to focus on the specific ingredients that combat pollution's effects. Antioxidants, such as vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid, are key players in anti-pollution skincare. They work by binding to free radicals, which are generated by pollutants, before these free radicals can damage skin cells and cause issues like premature ageing, hyperpigmentation, and skin sensitivity.

Additionally, moisturisers like hyaluronic acid and ceramides are essential in anti-pollution skincare routines. They help to strengthen the skin barrier, making it more challenging for pollution particles to penetrate and cause oxidative stress.

While the trend in anti-pollution skincare may have started in Asia, it has now spread worldwide, with consumers becoming increasingly aware of the potential harm pollution can inflict on their skin. As a result, numerous brands have emerged, offering a range of anti-pollution skincare products, from deep-cleansing facial washes to serums and creams that provide a protective barrier against pollutants.

Frequently asked questions