Fashion's Air Pollution: Which Sector Is The Worst Offender?

The fashion industry is the second-largest consumer of water worldwide, using 80 billion cubic meters of water annually. It is also responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions, more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. The environmental impact of the fashion industry is significant, with fast fashion being a major contributor. The rise of fast fashion is intertwined with the rise of social media and influencer culture, leading to a substantial increase in clothing consumption and, consequently, textile production. The negative consequences of fast fashion include the depletion of non-renewable sources, the emission of greenhouse gases, the use of massive amounts of water and energy, and the release of microplastics into the ocean. Developing nations, where much of the garment production takes place, often lack strict environmental regulations, resulting in land degradation and air and water pollution.

Fast fashion and its environmental impact

Fast fashion is a term used to describe "cheaply produced and priced garments to exploit current trends". It is characterised by its rapid and high-volume production nature, with an emphasis on mass production, low prices, and high sales volumes. The rise of social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok has further enhanced the growth of fast fashion, as brands can easily connect with younger audiences.

Fast fashion has a significant environmental impact. It is the second-biggest consumer of water, with an estimated 700 gallons of water used to produce a single cotton shirt and 2,000 gallons for a pair of jeans. This has led to the drying up of water sources and the pollution of rivers and streams. The dyeing and finishing processes are particularly harmful, ranking as the second-largest polluter of clean water worldwide after agriculture. The fashion industry is responsible for about 20% of global clean water pollution from these processes, and the water leftover is often dumped into ditches, streams, or rivers.

Fast fashion also contributes to the emission of greenhouse gases and global carbon emissions. The industry is responsible for about 10% of global CO2 emissions, more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. If the current trajectory continues, this share could increase to 26% by 2050, according to a report by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. The use of synthetic fibres like polyester, nylon, and acrylic, which take hundreds of years to biodegrade, further exacerbates the problem.

The manufacturing process of fast fashion often occurs in developing countries with lower production costs and less stringent environmental regulations. This has led to the release of untreated wastewater and toxic dyes into oceans and rivers, particularly in countries like Bangladesh, India, and Vietnam.

The overconsumption and short lifespans of fast fashion items contribute to the problem of textile waste. Only 12% of materials used for clothing are recycled, with the majority ending up in landfills. The rapid evolution of fashion trends encourages consumers to discard clothes quickly, leading to a cycle of waste.

To address the environmental impact of fast fashion, consumers are encouraged to make ethical choices and support sustainable brands. The concept of "slow fashion" advocates for manufacturing that respects people, the environment, and animals, with a focus on durability, repairability, reusability, and recyclability. Initiatives like the UN's Alliance for Sustainable Fashion aim to coordinate efforts to make the industry less harmful. Educating consumers about the impact of their choices can also help reduce demand for non-sustainable products.

The rise of social media and influencer culture

The fast-changing nature of social media trends and the constant stream of new content has led to a rapid increase in consumer demand for new and trendy fashion items. Influencers are constantly posting photos of themselves wearing new outfits, and their followers often want to emulate their style. This has resulted in a "rush to reproduce" culture, where fast fashion companies quickly replicate the items seen on influencers to meet consumer demand.

However, it's important to note that these companies are not just reacting to demand but also creating it. They employ a strategy known as "planned obsolescence," where clothes are purposefully made to be cheap and not to last. This encourages consumers to buy more frequently, as their clothes quickly go out of style or wear out. The fast pace of trends means that designs are not well stress-tested, and cheap synthetic fabrics are used to keep costs low, leading to a reliance on unsustainable plastic fabrics that have devastating consequences for the environment.

The fashion industry's environmental impact is significant, with high water usage, the release of toxins, and large amounts of waste generated. It is the second-biggest consumer of water, and the water used in the dyeing process alone would be enough to fill 2 million Olympic-sized swimming pools each year. The industry is also responsible for 20% of global clean water pollution from dyeing and finishing products, and the synthetic materials used are a primary reason for microplastics entering the oceans, which cause negative health effects when they end up in the human food chain.

While influencer culture has contributed to these issues, there is a growing movement of sustainability-focused influencers who are trying to be disruptive forces in the industry. They are advocating for sustainable fashion, promoting mindful living, and educating their followers about making better choices. These influencers are selective about the brands they work with, considering factors such as production transparency, employee treatment, packaging, and certification. They are also encouraging their followers to thrift or vintage shop, showing that sustainable choices can be enjoyable. By partnering with sustainable brands and educating their audiences, these influencers are using their platforms to drive positive change and make the fashion industry more mindful of its environmental impact.

The human cost of the fashion industry

The fashion industry has a significant impact on air pollution, with fast fashion being one of the main contributors. The fast-paced nature of this industry has led to a rapid increase in the number of new garments produced each year, with global consumption rising by 400% in the last two decades. This high-volume, low-cost model relies on the exploitation of resources and cheap labor, particularly in developing nations, to meet the ever-changing trends and demands of consumers.

Garment workers, who are predominantly women between the ages of 18 and 24, face numerous challenges, including wage theft, gender discrimination, and unsafe working conditions. They are often exposed to dangerous chemicals and dyes without proper protection, endangering their health and lives. Less than 2% of these workers earn a living wage, and women and children are frequently paid less than men. The power dynamics within the industry further paralyze the system, with imbalanced power relations leading to dire consequences for those in lower positions.

The fast fashion business model encourages consumers to buy poor-quality clothing, which is often worn only a few times before being discarded. This contributes to the massive amount of waste generated by the industry, with 85% of all textiles ending up in dumps each year. The environmental impact of this waste, coupled with the pollution from dyeing and finishing processes, has devastating consequences for the health of local communities and ecosystems near factories.

To address these issues, there have been calls for greater transparency in the fashion industry's supply chain. Some brands have started disclosing their manufacturers and suppliers, allowing workers, unions, and local communities to raise concerns about potential human rights and environmental violations. Initiatives like the Open Apparel Registry (OAR) aim to increase transparency by mapping every clothing and footwear factory worldwide. Additionally, organizations like the UN have launched the Alliance for Sustainable Fashion to coordinate efforts across agencies and make the industry less harmful.

While individual actions may not single-handedly change the industry, developing a better understanding of consumption and production practices can empower consumers to make more conscious decisions and advocate for ethical labor and sustainable practices in the fashion industry.

The fashion industry's water usage

Water is essential for the fashion industry's survival. The industry relies on water throughout the supply chain, from the irrigation of cotton crops to the domestic washing of clothes. It is a major consumer of water, with the fashion and textiles industry being the second-largest consumer of water worldwide. In 2015, the sector used 79 billion cubic meters of water.

Textile production and processing are major sources of water pollution and consumption. The processing of conventional textiles requires around 100-150 liters of water for every kilogram of fiber. The treatment and dyeing of textiles account for a significant portion of industrial water pollution, with billions of liters of water used to process textiles and then discharged into waterways.

Addressing the fashion industry's water usage is crucial for sustainability. Initiatives such as the Alliance for Sustainable Fashion by the UN aim to coordinate efforts to make the industry less harmful. Companies are also recognizing the importance of water access and quality, implementing measures to improve processes and protect the environment throughout their supply chains. Consumers are increasingly considering sustainability when making purchases, favoring higher-quality and more sustainable options over cheap fast fashion.

Greenhouse gas emissions and pollutants

The fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions, emitting 1.2 billion tonnes of carbon dioxide per year. This is more than the emissions from all international flights and maritime shipping combined. The industry's carbon emissions are predicted to increase by more than 50% by 2030 if it continues at the same pace. The three main drivers of the industry's global pollution are dyeing and finishing (36%), yarn preparation (28%), and fibre production (15%).

Textile production is estimated to cause around 20% of global clean water pollution from dyeing and finishing products. The dyeing process uses enough water to fill 2 million Olympic-sized swimming pools annually. The fashion industry is the second-largest consumer of water, requiring about 700 gallons to produce a single cotton shirt and 2,000 gallons for a pair of jeans. The water leftover from the dyeing process is often dumped into ditches, rivers, or streams, drying up water sources and polluting them.

The rise of fast fashion, intertwined with social media and influencer culture, has led to a substantial increase in clothing consumption and, consequently, textile production. The cheap and mass-produced clothing in fast fashion is not designed to last, with trends changing rapidly. This results in higher production rates, the use of unsustainable plastic fabrics, and increased water consumption.

The use of synthetic fibres like polyester, nylon, and acrylic, which have become popular due to their low cost, contributes to the emission of greenhouse gases and pollutants. These synthetic materials are a primary source of microplastics in the oceans, released during the washing of clothes. A single laundry load of polyester clothes can shed 700,000 microplastic fibres, and the majority of microplastics from textiles are released during the first few washes.

The environmental impact of the fashion industry extends beyond emissions and water pollution. It also includes the depletion of non-renewable sources, the use of toxic chemicals, and the unethical treatment of workers, often in developing countries with lenient laws and regulations.

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