Brian Barton
The fashion industry is widely believed to be the world's second-largest polluter. However, this claim has been disputed, with some arguing that there is no factual basis for this statement. Fast fashion, which accounts for a significant portion of the industry, is a major contributor to environmental issues. It is associated with overconsumption, low manufacturing standards, and the throwaway culture. The production and processing of textiles, as well as the use of synthetic materials, result in water pollution, toxic discharges, and microplastic pollution in oceans. While the fashion industry is taking steps towards sustainability, it is essential to address the environmental and social impacts of the current model.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Is fashion the second biggest polluter? | No |
| Fashion's contribution to global carbon emissions | 4.8% in 2015, 5% in 2020, 10% in 2024 |
| Fashion's contribution to global microplastic pollution | 35% |
| Water usage by the fashion industry | 93 billion cubic meters per year |
| Fashion's contribution to global wastewater | 20% |
| Fashion's contribution to global industrial water pollution | 20% |
| Fashion's contribution to global greenhouse gas emissions | 8% |
| Fashion's contribution to global waste generation | One garbage truck of textiles landfilled or burned every second |
| Environmental impact of fast fashion | High due to use of non-biodegradable fabrics, chemical dyes, and microfibres |
| Efforts to make fashion more sustainable | Integration of sustainability principles by companies, upcycling, recycling, and "take-back" programs |
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What You'll Learn
Fast fashion is a large contributor to global carbon emissions
The fashion industry's supply chain is the third-largest polluting industry, after food and construction. It is responsible for more emissions than the shipping and aviation industries combined. Fast fashion's carbon emissions come from various processes along the supply chain, from raw materials to production, processing, transport, and shipping.
The dominant business model in the fashion industry is fast fashion, where consumers are offered constantly changing collections at low prices, encouraging frequent purchases and the discarding of clothes. This model promotes overproduction and overconsumption, leading to a substantial increase in clothing consumption and, consequently, textile production. Global per capita production of textiles increased from 5.9kg per year to 13kg per year from 1975 to 2018. The average American buys around 68 pieces of clothing per year, compared to 12 pieces in the 1980s.
Fast fashion's environmental impact is felt most in developing countries, where textile production occurs due to cheap manufacturing and labour costs, and lax environmental regulations. The use of non-biodegradable fabrics, such as nylon and polyester, which account for over 60% of fabrics used in fast fashion, contributes to microplastic pollution in oceans. Synthetic fibres like polyester require chemical dyes and have a large grey water footprint, shedding microfibres that contribute to global microplastic pollution.
To address the environmental impact of fast fashion, consumers can reduce their consumption of fast fashion items and support sustainable alternatives, such as recommerce, slow fashion, recycling, upcycling, and purchasing from sustainable fashion brands.
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The fashion industry is a major polluter of water
The dyeing and finishing processes in clothing production require significant water resources. The textile sector consumes around 1.5 trillion litres of freshwater across its entire value chain globally. This high water consumption is extremely problematic for countries with already scarce water resources, such as Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Pakistan, and Vietnam, which are also the top locations for fast fashion production.
In Cambodia, the garment industry accounts for 69% of all toxic discharges, releasing industrial wastewater into landfills. Major fashion brands such as Zara, H&M, Primark, and Uniqlo, among others, outsource their production to low-cost suppliers in these countries, exacerbating the water pollution problem. China, the world's largest textile producer, faces similar challenges, contributing to 20% of global industrial water pollution.
Synthetic fibres used in fast fashion, such as polyester and nylon, are a significant contributor to water pollution. These non-biodegradable materials make up 35% of microplastic pollution in oceans, with 40-60% of microplastics emitted during the first wash of polyester clothing.
The environmental impact of the fashion industry has led to growing awareness and calls for change. Some companies are integrating sustainability principles into their business strategies, and consumers are increasingly demanding more eco-friendly practices. Initiatives such as garment collection schemes, recycling programmes, and the use of recycled materials are being adopted by some brands. However, there is a need to move beyond the “take, make and dispose” model and encourage consumers to buy less and prioritise sustainability over fast fashion.
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Fashion manufacturing uses harmful chemicals
While fashion may not be the second-biggest polluter in the world, it is still responsible for significant environmental harm. One of the major issues is the use of harmful chemicals in the manufacturing process.
The fashion industry's chemical use is not limited to a few isolated incidents; it has become a normalized part of creating clothing. Items in our wardrobes must be dyed, bleached, and processed, all of which require chemicals, some of which are more harmful than others. For example, polyester, a major fabric used in fast fashion, cannot be dyed naturally and requires chemical dyes. These dyes, along with other chemicals used in manufacturing, are often released into waterways, causing water pollution. This is a significant issue in countries with already scarce water resources, such as Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Pakistan, and Vietnam, which are also top locations for fast fashion production.
The use of chemical dyes is not the only concern. Other harmful chemicals used in fashion manufacturing include phthalates, azo dyes, heavy metals like chromium VI, and antimony trioxide, which is a suspected carcinogen. These chemicals can have severe impacts on both the environment and human health. For instance, chromium VI, often used to tan leather, is hemotoxic, genotoxic, and carcinogenic, and it is commonly found polluting groundwater.
Some fashion brands have taken steps to address this issue by introducing Manufacturing Restricted Substances Lists (MRSL) and Restricted Substances Lists (RSL) to eliminate or restrict the use of certain harmful chemicals. However, as noted by Tate from Green America, there is a need for better implementation and industry-wide alignment on these lists to ensure effective reduction of chemical use.
The complex issue of harmful chemicals in fashion manufacturing underscores the necessity of urgent action by the fashion industry. It also highlights the importance of consumer education to help reduce potential exposure to these chemicals and make more sustainable choices.
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Fashion waste is a growing problem
The industry's supply chain emitted 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions in 2015, releasing 1.2 billion tonnes of carbon dioxide, more than the shipping and aviation industries combined. If nothing changes, the fashion industry's greenhouse gas emissions are predicted to increase by more than 50% by 2030. This is due to the processes along the supply chain, from raw materials to production, processing, transport, and shipping.
Textile manufacturing uses multiple chemicals, pesticides, and herbicides, which can leach into the soil and cause harm to the natural environment. These chemicals also create an unsafe environment and increase health risks for factory workers, cotton farmers, and even consumers. The fashion industry is also a major contributor to water pollution, with textile dyeing being the second-largest polluter of water globally. It takes around 2,000 gallons of water to make one pair of jeans, and the industry consumes around 93 billion cubic meters of water annually, enough for five million people.
The fashion industry is also responsible for the growing problem of microplastic pollution in oceans, with synthetic fibres like polyester and nylon shedding microfibres that end up in the water supply. These synthetic materials account for 35% of global microplastic pollution in oceans. The fast fashion business model, which encourages consumers to frequently buy and discard clothes, contributes to overconsumption and the growing levels of waste generation. In fact, over the past 15 years, the number of times a clothing item is worn before its disposal has dropped by 36%.
However, there are efforts to address the environmental impact of the fashion industry. Some companies, including large retailers like H&M, are integrating sustainability principles into their business strategies through garment collection schemes and recycling programs. Entrepreneurs are also designing sustainable fashion, such as shoes made from algae and recycled plastic or rubber made from discarded gum. Consumers can also help reduce the impact of the fashion industry by reducing their consumption of fast fashion and supporting sustainable fashion brands.
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Fashion companies are integrating sustainability
While the fashion industry has been labelled the second-largest polluting industry globally, this claim has been refuted by some, who argue that there is no research or data to support this statement. However, the industry's impact on pollution, water use, carbon emissions, human rights, and gender inequality is undeniable. As a result, fashion companies are increasingly integrating sustainability into their operations.
One notable example is Rothy's, which has prioritised sustainability from its inception, using materials such as 100% recycled plastic water bottles and post-consumer recycled materials. Similarly, Tentree plants ten trees for every item purchased and creates clothing from ethically sourced and sustainable materials.
Large corporations are also taking steps towards sustainability. Levi's Water Some companies are adopting circular economy practices. Chanel, for instance, has calculated the carbon footprint of its web pages, reducing emissions by 16% despite increased web traffic. Hermès, established in 1837, integrates the principles of circularity into its manufacturing process, aiming for net-zero emissions by 2050. Burberry, another luxury brand, received SBTi approval for its net-zero emissions goal, including a 90% reduction in Scope 3 emissions by 2040. Additionally, smaller brands are making significant contributions to sustainability. Amour Vert creates garments in smaller batches to avoid waste, uses non-toxic dyes, and follows a zero-waste policy. Eileen Fisher prioritises sustainability and eco-friendliness in its design and manufacturing processes, avoiding air shipping and limiting fabric waste. People Tree, founded in 1991, was one of the first sustainable fashion brands, promoting fair wages, good working conditions, and using sustainable materials. The fashion industry's shift towards sustainability is evident, with companies of all sizes recognising the need to address their environmental and social impact. While the extent of the industry's pollution may be debated, the drive towards a more sustainable future in fashion is undeniable. You may want to see also Fashion is widely believed to be the second most polluting industry in the world, but this has been deemed an "eco-myth" by Jason Kibbey, the chief executive of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition. There is no research or data to support this claim. However, there is no doubt that the fashion industry has a significant impact on the environment. The fashion industry is responsible for a large amount of carbon emissions, water usage, waste generation, and environmental degradation. Fast fashion, in particular, promotes a culture of overconsumption and waste, with an average American buying around 68 pieces of clothing per year, as opposed to 12 pieces in the 1980s. Textile dyeing is the second-largest polluter of water globally, and it takes around 2000 gallons of water to make a typical pair of jeans. Synthetic fibres like polyester, commonly used in fast fashion, are non-biodegradable and contribute to microplastic pollution in oceans. Consumers can play a role by reducing their consumption of fast fashion and supporting sustainable fashion brands. Some companies are already integrating sustainability principles into their business strategies, such as garment collection schemes, recycling programmes, and the use of recycled materials.China's Pollution Problem: Who's Allowing This?
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