Clothing's Colorful History: Water Pollution's Dark Secret

The fashion industry is a major consumer and polluter of freshwater, with the dyeing process being the single worst contributor to climate change within the fashion and textile sector. The dyeing and finishing processes, which involve applying colour and other chemicals to fabrics, are some of the most polluting industrial processes globally. It is estimated that the treatment and dyeing of textiles account for 15-20% of industrial water pollution worldwide, with billions of tonnes of untreated wastewater being expelled from factories and entering water systems.

The dyeing process releases colourants and harmful chemicals into the wastewater

The dyeing process is a major contributor to water pollution. Dyeing and finishing textiles are responsible for 3% of global CO2 emissions, and over 20% of water pollution. The dyeing process uses industrial dye and chemical baths to colour fabrics, and these chemicals are then released into the wastewater.

The World Bank estimates that 17-20% of industrial water pollution comes from textile dyeing and finishing treatments. This includes the use of washing agents like caustic soda-based soaps and enzymes, which are needed to achieve bright colours and remove excess dye. The specific water consumption for dyeing varies from 30-50 litres per kg of cloth, depending on the type of dye used. The overall water consumption for yarn dyeing is about 60 litres per kg of yarn.

The wastewater produced by dyeing pollutes the water table, seeping into rivers, oceans, and groundwater. This wastewater contains harmful chemicals and colourants, including 72 toxic chemicals, 30 of which cannot be removed. These chemicals have severe impacts on health and ecosystems, including adverse effects on the reproductive system, renal functions, hepatocytes, and the central nervous system.

Some countries are taking steps to address this issue. For example, the government of Bangladesh has introduced legislation requiring factories to install water treatment plants, and the government of China has been cracking down on high-polluting textile factories. Researchers are also developing new technologies to treat dye-containing wastewater, such as a nanomaterial inspired by shellfish that can collect pollutants.

The fashion industry's quick production methods mean that it is capable of making significant and rapid improvements to reduce its environmental impact. However, this will require a collective effort from consumers, brands, and manufacturers to demand and produce clothes in less harmful ways.

The fashion industry is a large consumer and polluter of fresh water

The fashion industry is a major contributor to water pollution, with the dyeing and finishing of textiles being the single worst process. This stage of production is responsible for 3% of global CO2 emissions, which is predicted to increase to more than 10% by 2050, and over 20% of water pollution. The dyeing process uses large amounts of water, with an estimated 200 tons of water used per ton of fabric. The water is then returned to nature as toxic waste, containing harmful chemicals and residual dyes.

The fashion industry is the second-largest consumer of water, with 93 billion cubic meters used annually. Cotton, the most widely used natural fabric, is a large contributor to this, requiring significant water for irrigation and treatment. Cotton production also often involves the use of pesticides and fertilizers, which can contaminate water sources and harm local biodiversity and human health.

Textile dyeing is the second-largest polluter of clean water, after agriculture. It is estimated that 17-20% of industrial water pollution comes from the treatment and dyeing of textiles, with billions of tons of wastewater expelled from factories untreated. These chemicals find their way into rivers and oceans, with 72 toxic chemicals identified in water from textile dyeing alone.

The fashion industry's fast-paced nature has also contributed to high levels of water pollution, contamination, and waste. Consumers now buy 60% more clothing than they did 15 years ago, and clothing waste has increased due to early discardment, overproduction, and cheap fabrication.

However, there is a growing consumer consciousness to purchase eco-friendly clothing, and some countries are making progress towards more sustainable solutions. For instance, the government of Bangladesh has introduced legislation requiring factories to install water treatment plants.

The use of pesticides and fertilisers to grow cotton pollutes water sources

The fashion industry is responsible for up to 10% of global carbon emissions and is the second-largest consumer of water. The fast fashion culture has led to high levels of water pollution, contamination, and waste, with severe consequences for the world's water supply. The dyeing and finishing processes are the worst contributors to climate change within the fashion and textile sector. These processes are some of the most polluting industrial processes, causing over 20% of global water pollution.

Cotton, the most widely used natural fabric for clothing, is a major contributor to this pollution. Cotton requires large amounts of water for irrigation and treatment, depleting local freshwater and groundwater resources. To meet the high demand for cotton, pesticides and fertilizers are often used to increase output. However, these agrochemicals contaminate nearby water sources through runoff, posing threats to local biodiversity and human health. Pesticides, in particular, can cause serious health issues such as cancer and neurological diseases. They also pollute water sources and contaminate food supplies.

The overuse of pesticides by cotton farmers has led to pesticide resistance, disrupted beneficial insect populations, and caused secondary pest outbreaks. Cotton farming accounts for 4.7% of the world's pesticide and 10% of its insecticide sales, a disproportionately high amount considering its land use. The runoff of pesticides and fertilizers from cotton fields contaminates rivers, lakes, wetlands, and underground aquifers, affecting biodiversity directly through immediate toxicity or indirectly through long-term accumulation.

To address these issues, some farmers have adopted more sustainable practices. For example, by managing insect pests using natural ingredients and denser planting, some farmers have reduced pesticide costs and increased production and profits. Additionally, consumers are becoming more conscious of the environmental impact of their textile choices, with a growing demand for eco-friendly clothing.

Washing synthetic fibres releases microplastics into the water

Synthetic textiles are a major source of microplastic pollution in the world's oceans. The washing process is the most significant way that these textiles release microplastic fibres (MPFs). A single wash load can release several million microfibres, which then enter the wastewater stream. While advanced treatment plants can remove up to 99% of microfibres from water, the huge number of fibres present in treated water discharged from the plant means that they still end up in the environment.

Textiles shed microfibres while they are manufactured, worn, and disposed of, but especially when they are washed. The release of microfibres during washing ranges from 124 to 308 mg for every kg of washed fabric, depending on the type of garment. Acrylic is the worst offender, releasing nearly 730,000 tiny synthetic particles per wash, five times more than a polyester-cotton blend fabric, and 1.5 times as many as polyester. The addition of bio-detergents or conditioners also tends to release more fibres.

The most abundant fraction of microfibres shed during washing has an average length of 360-660 μm and a diameter of 12-16 μm. These dimensions can pass through wastewater treatment plants and pose a threat to marine organisms. The impact of microplastic pollution is not yet fully understood, but studies have suggested that it has the potential to poison marine life. Microplastics can also act as a "cocktail of contaminants" as metals and pesticides can stick to them, which may then be transferred to animals that ingest them.

To reduce the release of microfibres during washing, it is recommended to do laundry less often and to wash full loads instead of partial loads, as this reduces the release of fibres by reducing the friction on garments during the wash cycle. In the long term, reengineered textiles that don't shed microfibres will be the eventual solution, but in the meantime, filters that can trap microfibres can be added to washing machines to rapidly reduce the number of microfibres released into wastewater.

The use of detergents with harmful chemicals pollutes water

The fashion and textile sector is one of the largest contributors to climate change, with the dyeing and finishing processes being the single worst contributors. These processes are some of the most polluting industrial processes in the world, responsible for 3% of global CO2 emissions, and over 20% of global water pollution.

However, it is not just the industrial processes of dyeing and finishing that pollute water. The use of detergents with harmful chemicals also plays a significant role in water pollution. Detergents often contain phosphates, bleach, and other harmful chemicals that can pass into wastewater treatment plants and harm their performance. Phosphates, for example, can promote the excessive growth of algae, leading to oxygen depletion in the water and making it difficult for marine life to survive.

Furthermore, the chemicals used in traditional detergents can also make their way into the water supply and harm aquatic life and human health. Synthetic ingredients and chemicals in detergents can cause skin irritation, respiratory problems, and even cancer. They often contain synthetic fragrances that can trigger allergies and other health issues.

The use of detergents with harmful chemicals has serious risks to natural ecosystems. They can affect fauna and flora and have direct and indirect effects on ecosystems. For example, detergents can cause eutrophication, foaming, and alterations in parameters such as temperature, salinity, turbidity, and pH.

To reduce the environmental impact of detergents, consumers can switch to natural and eco-friendly alternatives. These detergents are made with ingredients that are not harmful to the environment, such as plant-based ingredients, and are often just as effective at cleaning clothes as traditional detergents. By choosing eco-friendly detergents, consumers can also positively impact their health, as these detergents do not contain harsh chemicals and synthetic fragrances that can cause health issues.

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