Brian Barton
The fashion industry has a significant impact on the environment, with pollution being one of its major consequences. The industry's rapid growth, driven by the rise of “fast fashion, has led to increased consumption of clothing, with around 80 billion items consumed annually. However, this has come at a cost. The fashion industry is a major contributor to water pollution, with textile dyeing being the second-largest polluter of water globally. The production and use of synthetic fibres, such as polyester and nylon, have also led to the emission of greenhouse gases and pollutants, further contributing to climate change. Additionally, the heavy use of chemicals in cotton farming and textile dyeing has resulted in soil degradation and health hazards for both workers and consumers. With the industry's environmental impact becoming more evident, there is a growing need for a shift towards sustainable fashion practices, including reducing waste, improving water and energy efficiency, and adopting eco-friendly materials.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Greenhouse gas emissions | 2% of world total greenhouse gas emissions (late 2010s) |
| Carbon emissions | 10% of global carbon emissions |
| Water use | 215 trillion litres of water per year; 700 gallons for a cotton shirt and 2,000 gallons for a pair of jeans |
| Wastewater pollution | 20% of industrial wastewater pollution worldwide |
| Freshwater pollution | 75 million tons of waste in the US alone |
| Ocean water pollution | 500,000 tons of microfibres released into the ocean each year |
| Soil degradation | Cotton production requires pesticides and insecticides, which pollute the soil |
| Air pollution | Burning unsold clothing pollutes the air |
| Textile waste | 80 billion items of clothing consumed annually, with 85% of clothes consumed in the US sent to landfill |
| Overproduction | 80 billion items of clothing consumed annually |
| Use of synthetic fibres | 64% of global fibre production in 2020 |
| Use of chemicals | Use of toxic chemicals in cotton farming and clothing production |
| Human rights | Infringements on human rights, including forced labour and low wages |
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What You'll Learn
Water pollution
The fashion industry is the second-largest consumer of water, contributing to about 20% of industrial wastewater. The industry emits up to 10% of global carbon emissions, with an anticipated 50% increase in greenhouse gas emissions by 2030.
Secondly, the dyeing process releases colourants and harmful chemicals into waterways when untreated. Textile dyeing is considered the world's second-largest polluter of water, as the water leftover from dyeing is often released into local streams and rivers without proper treatment. Synthetic dyes and azo dyes, which do not bind to the fabric, contribute to water pollution.
Thirdly, the production of synthetic fabrics, which require significant amounts of oil, releases pollutants such as lead, arsenic, and benzene into water sources. The use of synthetic fibres like polyester, nylon, and acrylic also contributes to water pollution, as these fibres take hundreds of years to biodegrade and release microplastics into the water during washing.
Fast fashion, with its emphasis on mass production and rapid consumption, exacerbates water pollution in the industry. The constant introduction of new styles at low prices encourages overconsumption and early discardment, leading to increased pollution levels.
While some companies, such as Gap Inc. and H&M, have acknowledged their role in water pollution and implemented measures to reduce water use and contamination, most companies do not actively monitor or address their water pollution levels.
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Air pollution
The fashion industry has a significant impact on air pollution, contributing to the degradation of the environment and public health. Air pollution is caused by the industry's carbon emissions, the burning of unsold clothing, and the release of microfibers and microplastics.
Firstly, the fashion industry is a significant contributor to carbon emissions, which leads to air pollution and the climate crisis. The industry's fast-paced and mass-production nature results in high energy consumption, with an overreliance on fossil fuels, contributing to greenhouse gas emissions. The production, distribution, and transportation of crops, fibers, and garments all contribute to carbon emissions. According to estimates, the fashion industry produces 8–10% of global CO2 emissions, which is comparable to the emissions generated by the entire European Union.
Secondly, the burning of unsold clothing is a significant source of air pollution. When clothing items are incinerated, they release harmful pollutants into the air, including hazardous chemicals and microplastics. This practice is common in the industry, as companies often dispose of excess inventory to make way for new trends.
Thirdly, the use of synthetic fibers, such as polyester, nylon, and acrylic, contributes to air pollution. These fibers are essentially plastic and take hundreds of years to biodegrade. When synthetic textiles are washed, they release microplastics and microfibers into the air and water sources, polluting the environment and entering the food chain. Microfibers have been found in fish, shellfish, and even human consumption, leading to potential unknown health impacts.
Additionally, the fashion industry's manufacturing processes can release harmful chemicals and pollutants into the air. Textile workers, primarily women in developing countries, are often subjected to long hours in poor working conditions with exposure to hazardous chemicals. These chemicals can also end up in the soil and water, causing further environmental damage.
To address air pollution caused by the fashion industry, efforts are being made to promote sustainable fashion practices. Organizations are advocating for a shift towards more sustainable business models, including reducing waste, improving energy efficiency, and using eco-friendly materials. Consumers are also encouraged to support sustainable brands, buy second-hand clothing, and hold companies accountable for their environmental practices.
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Soil degradation
The use of pesticides and fertilisers in cotton production has been linked to soil degradation and erosion. As pesticides and fertilisers run off from fields into nearby water sources, they contaminate the soil and deplete its quality. This degradation of soil leads to exhausted fields, forcing the expansion into new areas, which results in the destruction of local habitats and further pollution.
The fashion industry's reliance on cotton as a primary fabric contributes to the intensification of these issues. Cotton production requires vast amounts of land, and the degradation caused by chemical runoff exacerbates the environmental impact. Additionally, the energy-intensive processes involved in cotton production contribute to climate change, further affecting soil health.
Furthermore, the proliferation of microplastics and microfibers from synthetic textiles also impacts soil health. When synthetic clothing is washed, microplastics and microfibers are released into wastewater. While some of these microplastics are filtered out at treatment plants, they end up in soil as fertiliser. These microplastics then become part of the food chain, impacting both the environment and human health.
To address soil degradation, the fashion industry must prioritise sustainable practices. This includes reducing the use of pesticides and fertilisers in cotton production, adopting eco-friendly materials, and promoting the long-term use and repair of garments to decrease overproduction. By implementing these practices, the industry can minimise its impact on soil degradation and contribute to a healthier environment.
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Greenhouse gas emissions
The fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world. It is the second-largest industrial polluter, accounting for 10% of global pollution, which is higher than air travel. The industry generates 1.2 billion tonnes of carbon emissions annually, with the apparel and footwear industries contributing 8-10% of global carbon emissions. This is due to the lengthy supply chains and energy-intensive production methods, with clothing often produced in developing countries with less regulation around pollution and that rely heavily on fossil fuels. The proliferation of the fast-fashion business model has resulted in a consistent throughput of natural resources, with the fashion industry projected to account for 25% of the world's carbon budget by 2050.
The fashion industry's operating model exacerbates the problem by increasing the pace of design and production. Collection launches are no longer seasonal, and the replacement of clothing inventories has become much more frequent, with many low-cost clothing stores offering new designs every week. This has accelerated consumption, with the average person today buying 60% more clothing than in 2000. The production of chemical fibres has surpassed cotton production and has more than doubled in the last 20 years, with synthetic fibres accounting for 64% of global fibre production in 2020. These plastic-based textiles have a significant impact on the environment throughout their lifecycle due to emissions of greenhouse gases and pollutants.
The environmental impact of the fashion industry has led to calls for a more sustainable industry. Organisations are working to shift the fashion economy and foster international cooperation, with initiatives such as the UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion calling for a new textile economy. The goal is to explore the use of new materials to make clothing more durable, repairable, and reusable, helping to reduce pollution and increase recycling. Companies such as H&M and Levi's have also committed to sustainability goals, with Levi's dedicated to cutting their greenhouse gas emissions in their global supply chain by 40%.
To reduce the carbon footprint of the fashion industry, changes such as switching to renewable energy in factories and reducing the use of polyester and other synthetic fibres can be made. Consumers can also play a role by buying higher-quality materials that last longer and can be repaired easily, as well as washing clothes at lower temperatures to reduce energy consumption and minimise wear and tear.
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Human rights abuses
The fashion industry has long been associated with human rights abuses. The industry's complex global supply chains and outsourcing practices make it difficult to hold companies accountable for labour rights abuses in their outsourced suppliers.
One of the most prominent issues is the prevalence of modern slavery and forced labour. The International Labour Organization (ILO) estimates that about 50 million people worldwide are victims of modern slavery, which has increased due to the pressure of the fast-fashion economic model. This pressure results in workers facing poverty, complex working conditions, and continuous violations of their rights. The low prices of fast fashion are made possible by cutting corners, including the violation of labour laws and international humanitarian laws.
In addition to modern slavery, child labour is also prevalent in the industry. The pressure to keep prices low means that production often occurs in countries with cheaper labour, and the lack of effective enforcement of labour laws in these countries enables child labour to persist.
Garment workers, 80% of whom are women, face particularly challenging conditions. Their wages often fall below the poverty line, and they struggle to afford basic human needs such as food, housing, and healthcare. This issue is not limited to developing countries; garment workers in Europe also face wages well below the poverty line. The underpayment of workers is further exacerbated by the common practice of piece-rate pay, where workers are paid based on the number of items produced, leading to forced overtime and arbitrary abuse.
To address these human rights abuses, regulatory efforts are emerging to increase transparency and hold companies accountable for their impact on labour rights. However, the complexity of the supply chain and the presence of informal workers make it challenging to guarantee that workers' rights are respected and protected.
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Frequently asked questions
The fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions and is the second-largest consumer industry of water. It is also the second greatest polluter of local freshwater in the world.
The three main sources of pollution in the fashion industry are dyeing and finishing, yarn preparation, and fibre production. The use of toxic chemicals in the manufacturing process, such as textile dyeing, is a serious issue that has been linked to health issues in both workers and consumers.
The fashion industry pollutes water sources through the use of toxic chemicals in the manufacturing process, such as textile dyeing and finishing. These chemicals can also leech into the ground and cause environmental damage when clothes are discarded in landfills.
Fast fashion has been linked to overconsumption, with people buying 60% more garments in 2014 than in 2000 but keeping them for half as long. This has led to an increase in textile waste, with 85% of clothes consumed in the United States being sent to landfill. The rapid production and consumption of fast fashion have also been linked to increased water pollution and the use of synthetic fibres that take hundreds of years to biodegrade.
The use of toxic chemicals in the fashion industry has been linked to health issues in both workers and consumers. For example, the aniline dyes developed in the 19th century caused skin problems and an increased risk of cancer for those who worked with them. The heavy use of chemicals in cotton farming has also been linked to diseases and premature death among farmers.
