Fashion's Water Crisis: Fast Fashion's Pollution Problem

The fashion industry is the second-largest generator of pollution on Earth, and the escalating trend of fast fashion is largely to blame. The production of clothing relies on water at every stage of its lifecycle, from growing fibres to throwing clothes away. The manufacturing of clothes is chemically intensive, and the chemicals used in the process are often released into rivers and waterways, causing irreparable damage to the environment and human health.

Cotton farming and water usage

Cotton is one of the most water-intensive crops in the world, and its production has a significant impact on water usage and pollution. It is estimated that the fashion industry uses over 79 trillion litres of water annually, with cotton being the most widely used natural fabric for clothing.

Cotton farming is highly dependent on water for irrigation and treatment, often depleting local freshwater and groundwater resources. The water-intensive nature of cotton farming has led to concerns about the impact on drinking water sources and the environment. It is estimated that producing one kilogram of cotton, roughly equivalent to a t-shirt and a pair of jeans, requires more than 20,000 litres of water. This has led to increased pressure on water resources and contributed to water scarcity globally.

To meet the high demand for cotton, farmers often resort to using pesticides and fertilisers to increase yields. However, the runoff from agrochemical-contaminated water pollutes nearby water sources, posing threats to local biodiversity and human health. Pesticides and fertilisers can contaminate rivers, lakes, wetlands, and underground aquifers, affecting the health of aquatic life and ecosystems. Additionally, the use of pesticides and fertilisers can damage soil quality and destroy microbial communities in the ground.

The World Wildlife Fund (WWF) has estimated that cotton farming accounts for 3% of all water consumed by agriculture, with 73% of the global cotton crop being grown on irrigated land. Ineffective irrigation techniques, such as overflow and evaporation, contribute to water waste. However, there have been advancements in irrigation technology, such as drip-irrigation installations, that can help reduce water usage and improve water efficiency.

Cotton farming has also led to the conversion of natural habitats into agricultural land, impacting major ecosystems such as the Aral Sea in Central Asia, the Indus Delta in Pakistan, and the Murray Darling River in Australia. The expansion of cotton fields and the intensive water usage have resulted in freshwater loss through evaporation and inefficient water management.

To promote more sustainable cotton farming practices, organisations like CottonConnect and the Better Cotton Initiative are working with farmers to reduce water usage and implement eco-friendly methods. These initiatives encourage farmers to minimise the use of pesticides and fertilisers, improve water efficiency, and adopt ecologically sound growing techniques. By adopting these practices, farmers can reduce their environmental impact while maintaining profitable yields.

Chemical pollution from dyeing and finishing

The fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world, and the dyeing and finishing of textiles is a significant contributor to this. Dyeing and finishing are responsible for around 20% of global water pollution and 3% of global CO2 emissions. This is set to increase to over 10% by 2050, which would be more than the CO2 produced by shipping and aviation combined.

The dyeing and finishing process involves applying a huge number of chemicals to fabrics, with over 8000 synthetic chemicals often being used to turn raw materials into textiles. One of the major chemical culprits is the dye itself, with the water used to apply these chemicals often being dumped back into rivers and other waterways. This wastewater pollutes the water table, getting into rivers and oceans, and is also used to irrigate fields. This is a particular problem in countries that dominate the dyeing industry, such as China, Bangladesh, Thailand and Indonesia.

The chemicals used in the dyeing and finishing process include oil, phenol, pesticides, heavy metals (such as copper, mercury and chromium), and dyes. These chemicals have severe and far-reaching consequences, harming wildlife and destroying sensitive marine and freshwater environments. Some chemicals may also contribute to ocean acidification, which has impacts throughout the marine food chain.

The pollution caused by the dyeing and finishing of textiles is not just an environmental issue, but also a human health issue. Chemical dumping into water supplies damages the health of nearby communities that depend on the water for drinking water and seafood. For example, shellfish often soak up toxic chemicals like AZO dyes from textile production, which can be harmful to people who eat them.

To tackle this issue, some companies are moving towards using only natural dyes, which have a much lower environmental impact. Other solutions include investing in new technologies, such as digital dyeing machines that produce no wastewater and reduce energy consumption, and treating wastewater to filter out chemicals before it is released into the environment. Increased regulation of the fashion industry's wastewater habits is also necessary to reduce the amount of toxic chemicals in waterways.

Physical microfibre pollution

Microfibres are released during the production of clothing, as well as after consumers have purchased the clothing, through general wear and washing. Studies have shown that 35% of microplastics found in the ocean are a result of washing clothes made of synthetic material. These microfibres are not stationary and can be transported long distances through water. They have been found in freshwater, drinking water, and even in Arctic sea ice.

Microfibres have been found in the bodies of various marine animals, including fish and other seafood destined for human consumption. They can cause gastrointestinal blockage and a false sense of satiety, leading to stunted growth in crab populations.

There is limited research on the long-term effects of microfiber consumption on humans, but it is expected that they can cause hormone-related cancers, infertility, and neurodevelopmental disorders.

Water pollution from washing synthetic textiles

The amount of microplastics released during washing varies depending on the type of fabric and its characteristics. For instance, fabrics with twisted yarns tend to release fewer microfibres. The washing of polyester clothes, a common synthetic fabric, can result in the release of 124 to 308 mg of microfibres per kg of fabric washed. This corresponds to a significant number of microfibres, ranging from 640,000 to 1,500,000.

The dimensional characteristics of the released microfibres are also important. The most abundant fraction of microfibres shed during washing tends to have a length of 360-660 μm and a diameter of 12-16 μm. These dimensions are small enough to pass through wastewater treatment plants and can be found in water effluents, marine sediments, and even ingested by marine fauna.

The release of microplastics from synthetic textiles during washing is a significant contributor to the global microplastics problem. It is estimated that synthetic clothes contribute about 35% of the global release of primary microplastics into the oceans. This is a concerning issue considering the widespread use of synthetic fibres in the apparel industry, accounting for nearly 60% of the annual global fibre consumption.

The majority of microplastics from textiles are released during the first few washes. This is particularly relevant in the context of fast fashion, which promotes mass production, low prices, and high sales volumes, leading to many first washes. The accumulation of microplastics on the ocean floor from washing synthetic products is a significant global issue, and the local pollution generated by garment production also has devastating impacts on the health of nearby communities and ecosystems.

Water pollution from untreated factory waste

One of the main sources of water pollution in the clothing production process is the "wet-processing" stage, where fabrics are dyed, printed, and finished. This stage is water-intensive and often involves the use of over 8000 synthetic chemicals. These chemicals, including dyes, are then washed off and dumped into rivers and other waterways, contaminating local water supplies and ecosystems.

The fashion industry's untreated factory waste has severe consequences for both the environment and human health. The introduction of toxic chemicals into water sources harms wildlife and destroys marine and freshwater environments. Additionally, chemical dumping into water supplies can impact the health of nearby communities, particularly those that depend on these water sources for drinking water, fishing, and other activities.

Furthermore, the fashion industry's water pollution contributes to the growing issue of microplastic pollution. Synthetic clothing, such as those made from polyester and nylon, release microfibers when they break down or are washed. These microfibers, which are a type of microplastic, can spread through the natural environment and have been found in freshwater, drinking water, and even Arctic sea ice. They can accumulate in human body tissue and have the potential to cause various health issues.

To address water pollution from untreated factory waste in the fashion industry, several measures can be taken. Manufacturers can invest in less water-intensive production methods and reduce the use of chemicals in clothing production. Consumers can also play a role by buying only what they need, thrifting clothes, and recycling their old garments instead of throwing them away.

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