Cotton's Dark Side: India's Pollution Crisis

India is the world's largest producer of cotton, with 5.8 million cotton farmers. However, conventional cotton farming uses many pesticides and synthetic fertilizers, which can lead to soil degradation, water pollution, and health issues for farmers and nearby communities. In 2017, dozens of farmers in India's central cotton belt died from pesticide poisoning, and about a thousand more were hospitalized. This has led to a growing organic movement in India, which aims to educate cotton farmers about the benefits of organic farming, including reduced environmental pollution and improved soil health. This movement is gaining traction, with India currently providing over 50% of the world's organic cotton supply.

Pesticide poisoning

India is the world's largest producer of cotton, with 5.8 million cotton farmers. Every year, a large number of these farmers are poisoned by their exposure to pesticides. Many have died, and many more continue to suffer from chronic illnesses. In 2017, dozens of farmers died from pesticide poisoning in just a few months, and about a thousand more were hospitalised. This overwhelmed the main hospital in rural Yavatmal, which was ill-equipped to deal with the situation.

In addition to the human cost, pesticide use in cotton farming also has environmental consequences. Cotton is the world's "dirtiest" crop, using more chemical pesticides than any other major crop. These pesticides can contaminate the air, water, and soil, and have been found in significant amounts in the Mississippi River area. Pesticides can also remain on clothes and fabric made from chemical-intensive cotton cultivation, posing a potential health hazard to consumers, especially those with sensitive skin.

To address the issue of pesticide poisoning, Devanand Pawar founded the Maharashtra Association of Pesticide Poisoned Persons (MAPPP) to help victims claim compensation from pesticide companies. MAPPP argues that pesticide companies deceive farmers by claiming their products bring good crops while failing to provide adequate warnings about the dangers of their products.

Water pollution

India is the world's largest producer of cotton, with 5.8 million cotton farmers. However, conventional cotton farming uses many pesticides and synthetic fertilizers, which can lead to water pollution. Cotton farming consumes 16% of the world's insecticides and 6.8% of herbicides, contributing to the degradation of soil fertility and water pollution. These chemicals pollute waterways and harm ecosystems and human health. For example, in 2017, dozens of farmers in India's central cotton belt died from pesticide poisoning, and about a thousand more were hospitalized.

The fashion industry, of which cotton is a pivotal part, accounts for around 20% of industrial water pollution. Cotton is a water-intensive crop, requiring about 2,700 liters of water to produce just one cotton t-shirt. This contributes to water scarcity in cotton-growing regions.

To address these issues, there is a growing organic movement in India that aims to educate cotton farmers about the benefits of organic farming. Organic cotton consumes fewer chemicals and resources, using 62% less energy and 88% less water. It does not strain rivers and seas as 80% of organic cotton is rain-fed, and it does not use chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Instead, it uses natural pest management methods, leading to less environmental pollution and improved soil health.

Initiatives such as the Better Cotton programme in India have shown significant benefits for farmers, with improved profitability and a positive environmental impact. Better Cotton Farmers in regions like Maharashtra (Nagpur) and Telangana (Adilabad) have achieved improvements in managing pesticides and fertilizers, reducing costs, and safeguarding the environment more effectively.

By transitioning to organic and sustainable practices, Indian cotton farmers can reduce water pollution, improve their livelihoods, and contribute to a healthier environment.

Soil degradation

India is the world's largest producer of cotton, with 5.8 million cotton farmers. However, the country is facing an agrarian crisis due to unsustainable farming techniques and soil degradation, which have led to an increase in farmer suicides.

The introduction of genetically modified (GM) crops, such as Bt cotton, has added a new dimension to the issue of toxicity in the landscape. While Bt cotton was promoted as a solution to pest problems, some villagers believe that the grass in Bt cotton fields is toxic and do not allow their cattle to graze there. The burning of Bt cotton stalks also generates more smoke and burns faster, further contributing to environmental degradation.

The excessive use of pesticides has also had a significant impact on soil health. Pesticides affect human and animal health, cause a loss of biodiversity, and lead to irreversible changes in the environment. In addition, the struggle to make pesticide companies accountable for the damage caused by their products has been challenging.

However, there is a growing organic movement in India that aims to educate cotton farmers about the benefits of organic farming. Organic farming uses no harmful pesticides, is better for the environment, and delivers more money directly to farmers. Initiatives such as the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) promote improved soil management practices that increase soil biodiversity and prevent land degradation.

Carbon emissions

India is the world's largest producer of cotton, with around 10.5 million hectares of land under cotton cultivation. The country is also a significant player in the global textile and apparel supply chain, with more than 3000 spinning and composite mills. As a result, India's textile industry is facing severe ecological and social problems, including water body pollution and carbon emissions caused by the discharge of untreated effluents.

Cotton production in India is associated with a high carbon footprint due to the industry's high energy usage and significant carbon emissions. The country's reliance on coal-fuelled power plants contributes to the carbon emissions associated with clothing manufacturing. Additionally, the fashion sector's increasing number of micro seasons, from two a year to as many as 50-100, is expected to drive up production and consumption, further exacerbating carbon emissions.

The environmental impact of cotton production is not limited to carbon emissions. Cotton farming in India has been associated with the excessive use of pesticides, which has led to the poisoning of many farmers and caused chronic illnesses in others. The organic farming movement in India aims to address these issues by promoting chemical-free farming practices, which can reduce environmental pollution and improve soil health.

While organic cotton typically consumes fewer chemicals and resources, a study found that organic cotton in India had a higher environmental impact than conventional cotton. This unexpected result may be due to potential yield differences and varying modelling assumptions between organic and conventional farming methods. However, organic cotton farming in India still faces challenges, such as higher debt rates among organic farmers compared to conventional farmers.

To address the carbon emissions associated with cotton production in India, some brands have undertaken supply chain initiatives to monitor and reduce carbon emissions at factories. Consumers can also play a role in reducing carbon emissions by changing their clothing care habits. Using cold-water laundry detergent, for example, can help reduce energy consumption by up to 90%.

Organic farming initiatives

India is the world's largest producer of cotton, with approximately 5.8 million farmers making a living from growing cotton and tens of millions of people working in the cotton industry. However, conventional cotton production has raised significant environmental concerns due to its impact on water usage, soil erosion, soil fertility, and carbon emissions. Additionally, the use of pesticides and insecticides in cotton farming has led to health issues for farmers and surrounding communities.

To address these issues, there is a growing organic movement in India that aims to educate cotton farmers about the benefits of organic farming. Organic cotton cultivation in India has emerged as a transformative practice, enhancing the sustainability of the textile industry. Here are some key initiatives contributing to this movement:

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI)

The Better Cotton Initiative is a global program that promotes sustainable cotton farming practices. India was one of the first countries to implement this initiative, with the first harvest of Better Cotton produced in 2011. BCI works closely with smallholder farmers in India to address growing and productivity challenges. They provide training and support to improve livelihoods, eliminate the risk of child labour, and promote children's education. BCI also focuses on reducing water usage and fostering decent work practices.

Solidaridad

Solidaridad is an organisation that actively works to make cotton cultivation more organic and sustainable in India. They aim to protect labour rights and reduce the usage of water and fertilisers in cotton farming.

Environmental Justice Foundation (EJF)

The Environmental Justice Foundation is dedicated to addressing the negative impacts of cotton production in India. In March, an EJF team travelled to India to speak with people directly affected by pesticide usage and to promote organic cotton farming. They aim to educate farmers about the benefits of organic farming, which includes the elimination of harmful pesticides, improved environmental outcomes, and increased profits for farmers.

Maharashtra Association of Pesticide Poisoned Persons (MAPPP)

Founded by Devanand Pawar, MAPPP helps victims of pesticide poisoning claim compensation from pesticide companies. They fight against the deception and exploitation of farmers by multinational pesticide companies and advocate for accountability and justice.

Isha Sadhguru

Isha Sadhguru is an organisation that promotes organic cotton farming in India. They emphasise the importance of ecologically sustainable practices, such as avoiding synthetic agricultural chemicals and relying on ecological processes, biodiversity, and local adaptations. Isha Sadhguru also highlights the potential for organic farming to promote fair prices and improve the quality of life for those involved.

While organic farming in India faces challenges, such as the lack of availability of seeds and the transition to organic fertilisers and bio-pesticides, addressing these issues can lead to a successful and sustainable organic cotton sector in the country.

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