Greta Jimenez
The apparel industry is responsible for 4-8.1% of global carbon emissions, ranking higher than emissions from air travel. The industry is the second-largest consumer of water worldwide, with textile dyeing being the second-largest polluter of water. The fashion industry dries up water sources and pollutes rivers and streams, while 85% of all textiles go to dumps each year. The rise of fast fashion has been crucial in the increase in consumption, driven partly by social media and the industry bringing fashion trends to more consumers at a faster pace than in the past. The industry also poses societal problems, especially in developing economies, where there is evidence of forced and child labour.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Global carbon emissions | 4.0–8.1% |
| Water usage | Second-largest consumer industry of water |
| Water pollution | 20% of global clean water pollution |
| Waste | 85% of all textiles go to dumps each year |
| Microplastics | 35% of microplastics in the ocean come from laundering synthetic textiles |
| Hazardous chemicals | The presence of hazardous chemicals is tackled by the EU's waste directive |
| Labour | Employs over 300 million people |
| Labour conditions | Poor labour conditions, including derisory wages, forced and child labour |
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What You'll Learn
The apparel industry's carbon footprint
The apparel industry has a significant carbon footprint, contributing between 4.0 and 10% of global carbon emissions. This is more than the emissions of France, Germany, and the United Kingdom combined. The industry is the second-largest industrial polluter, ranking higher than air travel. The main drivers of the apparel industry's carbon emissions are the production and manufacturing of textiles, particularly synthetic textiles, which rely heavily on fossil fuels for energy. The three biggest contributors to the industry's global pollution are dyeing and finishing (36%), yarn preparation (28%), and fibre production (15%).
Textile production occurs through long and complex supply chains, with most global fibre production destined for clothing. The fashion industry's constant introduction of new trends at affordable prices encourages overconsumption and overproduction, with clothing often perceived as disposable. This perception has resulted in an increase in discarded items, with the UK, for example, sending 300,000 tonnes of clothes to landfill each year. Washing synthetic clothing also contributes to the industry's carbon footprint, as it releases microplastic fibres that end up in the oceans and the food chain.
The rise of fast fashion has exacerbated the industry's carbon footprint. Fast fashion is characterized by mass production, low prices, and high sales volumes, which promote frequent washing and contribute to the release of microplastics. Additionally, the production of clothing often takes place in developing countries with lenient laws and regulations, where there is less regulation around pollution and a reliance on coal and other fossil fuels.
To reduce the apparel industry's carbon footprint, systemic change is required, including stakeholder collaboration, technology innovation, government policy support, and infrastructure improvements. Strategies such as clothing rental, circular fashion, and convincing consumers to buy higher-quality, longer-lasting clothing can also help reduce the industry's environmental impact. Extending the lifecycle of clothing by buying second-hand or renting can reduce carbon emissions by up to 90%.
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Water pollution from the apparel industry
The apparel industry is a major consumer of water, with the fashion industry being the second-largest consumer industry of water. It is estimated that 93 billion cubic meters of water are used by the fashion industry annually. The most widely used natural fabric for clothing, cotton, requires large amounts of water for irrigation and treatment, putting pressure on local freshwater and groundwater resources. In addition, the production of synthetic fabrics requires 70 million barrels of oil per year, and the wastewater from this process releases lead, arsenic, benzene, and other pollutants into water sources.
The heavy use of pesticides, fertilizers, and chemicals in cotton farming not only causes diseases and premature death among cotton farmers but also leads to massive water pollution. The runoff from agrochemical-contaminated water pollutes nearby water sources, posing threats to local biodiversity and human health. The dyeing process for fabrics also contributes significantly to water pollution, as the water leftover from this process is often dumped into ditches, streams, or rivers. Dhaka, a garment industry epicenter in Bangladesh, is situated within a system of rivers that are regularly dyed from factory wastewater, with three of these rivers being declared biologically dead.
Textile production is estimated to be responsible for about 20% of global clean water pollution from dyeing and finishing products. The washing of synthetic textiles is a primary source of microplastics in the aquatic environment, which can damage aquatic ecosystems and even accumulate in human body tissue. A single laundry load of polyester clothes can release 700,000 microplastic fibers that can end up in the food chain. Furthermore, the fashion industry's rapid production and consumption of clothing contribute to landfill waste, with most unwanted clothing ending up in landfills as textile waste that will never decompose.
The apparel industry is responsible for between 4.0% and 8.1% of global carbon emissions, contributing to the industry's overall environmental impact. While figures measuring the industry's actual global water pollution are scarce, there is a consensus that fertilizers, chemicals, dyes, and extreme water intensity in textile processing have resulted in the pollution of rivers, freshwater, and marine ecosystems globally. The pressure is mounting for the industry to address water pollution, with investors, regulators, customers, and consumers calling for change.
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The use of chemicals and dyes
The apparel industry is a major contributor to water pollution, with rivers, freshwater, and marine ecosystems suffering globally. This is due in large part to the use of chemicals and dyes in the manufacturing process, which has been standard practice since the 19th century.
Textile dyeing is the world's second-largest polluter of water, with wastewater from the dyeing process often dumped directly into natural water sources. These dyes are not only visually polluting, but also toxic, impairing photosynthesis, inhibiting plant growth, and causing toxicity, mutagenicity, and carcinogenicity. The use of synthetic dyes, which now make up 90% of clothing dyes, requires huge amounts of water and toxic chemicals. One example is the synthesised indigo dye, which is a chemical cocktail of formaldehyde, aniline, and hydrogen cyanide.
The release of these chemicals into the environment has also had detrimental effects. PFAS, for example, are often found in water, food, and the environment, and are known to bioaccumulate and persist, causing environmental and health issues. Similarly, phthalates, used in activewear, anti-odor clothing, printing inks, and processing, are known to be carcinogenic and endocrine disruptors.
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The impact on human rights
The apparel industry has been criticized for its detrimental impact on the environment, but it is also one of the biggest violators of human rights. The industry's supply chains are often complex and globalized, spanning across Asia, Eastern Europe, Latin America, and other regions, which has allowed firms to shirk their responsibilities and exploit workers in developing countries.
Firstly, the industry has been accused of perpetuating modern slavery and forced labor. In 2018, a US Department of Labor report found evidence of forced and child labor in the fashion industry in several countries, including Argentina, Bangladesh, Brazil, China, India, Indonesia, the Philippines, Turkey, and Vietnam. The report also revealed that 99% of major fashion firms underreport the number of workers in their supply chain who are paid a living wage, and only 23% explain the prevalence of modern slavery and risk factors in their production. This complexity of supply chains makes it difficult for consumers to know how and where their clothing is made, and companies often lack transparency, making it harder to hold them accountable.
Secondly, the apparel industry has been criticized for its poor working conditions and labor abuses, particularly in illegally subcontracted factories. These factories often hire workers on a casual basis, denying them protections such as maternity leave and sick leave, and making it harder for workers to form unions and collectively bargain for better protections. In 2013, a factory building collapse in Dhaka, Bangladesh, killed 1,134 workers and injured more than 2,500, bringing attention to the inadequate approach of apparel brands to worker rights. Human Rights Watch has also documented that workers in Cambodia frequently experience forced overtime, pregnancy-based discrimination, and denial of paid maternity leave.
Thirdly, the industry has been accused of discriminating against women, who constitute the majority of the workforce in most countries. Women in the industry are particularly vulnerable to abuse and exploitation, with reports of sexual harassment, gender-based violence, intimidation, and verbal abuse. In Cambodia, for example, women make up about 90% of the workforce in the garment industry, yet they frequently experience pregnancy-based discrimination and are denied paid maternity leave.
To address these human rights concerns, there have been increasing attempts by governments and regulators to implement stricter regulations and legislation. The UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights state that companies have a responsibility to respect the human rights of workers and cannot act in ways that negatively impact them. The European Parliament has also approved legislation to integrate human rights and environmental impact into governance, obliging companies to prevent, eliminate, or mitigate the negative impacts of their activities. Additionally, initiatives such as the "Transparency Pledge" aim to increase transparency in the industry and hold companies accountable for labor rights abuses.
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Sustainable fashion and the future
The apparel industry is responsible for between 4.0–8.1% of global carbon emissions, which equates to more greenhouse gas emissions than France, Germany, and the United Kingdom combined. The industry also dries up water sources and pollutes rivers and streams, with around 20% of industrial water pollution worldwide originating from the fashion industry. Textile dyeing is the world's second-largest polluter of water, and the use of synthetic fibres like polyester, nylon, and acrylic, which do not biodegrade, results in the release of microplastics into the ocean. The social and environmental costs of the industry are undeniable, and the need for a shift to sustainable fashion is evident.
The rise of fast fashion, driven by social media and the quickening pace of trends, has increased consumption and the rate at which we dispose of clothing. This has led to the decimation of local apparel and manufacturing industries in the Global South, as well as increased waste and pollution. The industry's complex supply chains and excessive production also contribute to its large environmental footprint.
However, there is a growing movement towards slow and sustainable fashion, which advocates for manufacturing that respects people, the environment, and animals. The World Resources Institute suggests that companies need to design, test, and invest in business models that reuse clothes and maximise their useful life. Organisations like the Better Cotton Initiative aim to make global cotton production better for the people who produce it, the environment it grows in, and the sector's future.
The future of sustainable fashion will likely involve circular business models, including resale, rental, repair, and refurbishment. Younger generations will demand end-to-end sustainable brands, and brand loyalty will be dependent on a company's sustainability attributes. Cutting overproduction and reducing emissions will not only benefit the planet but will also save the industry money in the long term.
To achieve a more sustainable future, the apparel industry must address its water and waste pollution, reduce its carbon emissions, and improve its social impact on workers and local communities.
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Frequently asked questions
The apparel industry is the second-largest industrial polluter, accounting for 10% of global pollution. This is a higher percentage than emissions from air travel.
The fashion industry is the second-largest consumer of water worldwide. It uses around 700 gallons of water to produce one cotton shirt and 2000 gallons to produce a pair of jeans. The industry also pollutes water sources with toxic waste, chemicals, dyes, and microfibres.
The apparel industry produces 10% of all humanity's carbon emissions, which is more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined.
Synthetic fibres such as polyester and nylon take hundreds of years to biodegrade and have a significant impact on the environment and climate throughout their life cycle due to the emission of greenhouse gases and pollutants.
Organisations are working to shift the fashion economy and foster international cooperation on the issue. The UN has launched the Alliance for Sustainable Fashion, and the EU has introduced the EU Ecolabel to highlight products that include fewer harmful substances and cause less pollution.
