Kiera Jefferson
The fashion industry is widely believed to be the second most polluting industry in the world. However, this claim has been disputed. The fashion industry is responsible for 20% of global wastewater, with textile production being responsible for about 20% of global clean water pollution from dyeing and finishing products. The rise of fast fashion has increased consumption, with social media and the industry bringing fashion trends to consumers at a faster pace. This has led to an increase in the production and distribution of crops, fibers, and garments, contributing to water, air, and soil degradation. While the fashion industry is working towards sustainability, it is still a major contributor to pollution.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Percentage of global clean water pollution | 20% |
| Amount of microplastic fibres released in a single polyester load of laundry | 700,000 fibres |
| Amount of water used to manufacture a single pair of Levi jeans | 3,781 litres |
| Amount of water used to produce one kilogram of textiles | 200 litres |
| Amount of textile waste produced in 2018 | 17 million tons |
| Amount of the 17 million tons of textile waste that was discarded in landfills | 11.3 million tons |
| Amount of the 17 million tons of textile waste that was incinerated with energy recovery | 3.2 million tons |
| Amount of the 17 million tons of textile waste that was recycled | 2.5 million tons |
| Percentage of donated clothes that go to thrift stores | <20% |
| Percentage of industrial wastewater pollution caused by textile dyeing and finishing | 20% |
| Percentage of global fibre production that is used for clothing | 60% |
| Percentage of global emissions caused by the fashion industry | 5% |
| Ranking of the fashion industry in terms of global emissions | Third |
| Percentage of global greenhouse gas emissions caused by clothing and footwear production | 8% |
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What You'll Learn
Fast fashion and overconsumption
Fast fashion is a term coined by the New York Times in the 1990s to describe clothing that is "cheaply produced and priced" and which copies the latest catwalk styles, turning them around at speed to maximise sales while the trend is still current. The biggest players in the fast fashion world include Zara, Shein, UNIQLO, Forever 21, and H&M.
The fast fashion model is based on mass production, low prices, and high sales volumes. This model has contributed to overconsumption, with the number of clothes purchased by the average consumer increasing by 60% between 2000 and 2014, while the length of time that these clothes are kept has halved. The fast fashion industry prioritises increased profits and consumption over the environment and human health.
The environmental impact of fast fashion is significant. The industry is the second-largest consumer of water, requiring about 700 gallons to produce one cotton shirt and 2,000 gallons of water to produce a pair of jeans. It is also responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions, more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. The production of leather and plastic fibres into textiles requires large amounts of water, land, fossil fuels, and energy, while the tanning process is among the most toxic in the fashion supply chain.
Fast fashion also contributes to the proliferation of microfibres across global water sources. A single laundry load of polyester clothes can discharge 700,000 microplastic fibres that can end up in the food chain. The majority of microplastics from textiles are released during the first few washes.
The social impact of fast fashion is also notable. Most fast-fashion companies outsource their labour to developing nations, leading to lower wages and less government regulation. For example, the average wage of an H&M factory worker in Myanmar was $2.63 a day while working 6 days a week.
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Water pollution
The fashion industry is the second most polluting industry in the world, responsible for 8% of global carbon emissions and 20% of global water pollution. This equates to 93 billion cubic meters of water annually, enough to quench the thirst of 110 million people for a whole year.
The rise of fast fashion has been a crucial factor in the increase in consumption. Social media and the industry's ability to deliver trends faster and to more consumers than ever before have driven this surge. Fast fashion is a business model that mass-produces replicas of the latest clothing trends at a low cost and sells them rapidly while demand is high. The objective is to help consumers acquire the latest trends at affordable prices. However, this has resulted in high levels of water pollution, contamination, and waste, with detrimental effects on the environment and human health.
Textile production is estimated to be responsible for about 20% of global clean water pollution, mainly from dyeing and finishing products. The dyeing process uses around 5 trillion liters of water, and it is estimated that 105 tons of dyes are released into the environment each year through 200 billion liters of wastewater. This wastewater is discharged into rivers and seas, exterminating biodiversity. The dye is not easily biodegradable and thus poses a huge problem. In addition, the textile industry pollutes water sources with microfibers (tiny synthetic fibers) that can spread across rivers and oceans. Some studies have estimated that up to 85% of human-made pollution on shorelines is from microfibers, and others have warned that half a million tons of microfibers are discarded into the oceans annually. These microfibers are released during the production process and when clothes are worn and washed. Microfiber pollution can take hundreds of years to decompose and can disrupt underwater ecosystems. Traces of microfibers from synthetic sources such as polyester and nylon have been found in fish and other seafood destined for human consumption.
To address these issues, the European Parliament has proposed tougher EU measures to curb excessive textile production and consumption. The EU Ecolabel encourages producers to meet ecological criteria, helping consumers identify products that include fewer harmful substances and cause less water and air pollution. The waste directive, approved in 2018, includes measures to tackle hazardous chemicals and encourages producers to take responsibility for their products' entire life cycles. The European Commission has also presented a strategy to make textiles more durable, repairable, reusable, and recyclable, tackling fast fashion and stimulating innovation.
Companies can also adopt more sustainable practices, such as using sustainable materials in the manufacturing process. For example, organic hemp, organic linen, and Piñatex (a vegan leather made from pineapple leaves) are biodegradable and sustainable alternatives. Econyl is another innovative fiber made from recovered ocean waste, such as plastics and fishing nets. Additionally, consumers can play a role by supporting brands that use certified organic cotton, indicated by the GOTS label (Global Organic Textile Standard). This label ensures that no toxic fertilizers or pesticides were used in the production process. Implementing circular economy practices can also help reduce waste and pollution by promoting reusing, sharing, refurbishing, repairing, recycling, and remanufacturing.
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Microfibre pollution
The textile industry is responsible for the invisible pollution that is caused by textile microfibres, which have been detected in marine sediments, soil, air, lakes, and organisms. Microfibres are released from textiles at every stage of their life cycle, from production to use, and end-of-life disposal. They are also released into the water stream during the washing of clothes, with a single laundry load of polyester clothes discharging 700,000 microplastic fibres that can end up in the food chain. The majority of microplastics from textiles are released during the first few washes.
Microfibres are similar to microplastics in terms of their size and the environmental threat they pose. They are created from synthetic polymers and natural sources. The term "microfibre" was first used to describe micropollutants, which are released from textiles that contain a variety of dyes, toxic chemicals, and nanomaterials. These microfibres have been shown to lead to altered immune systems, growth inhibition, physical injuries, and fecundity alterations in living organisms.
The rise of fast fashion has been crucial in the increase in consumption, driven partly by social media and the industry bringing fashion trends to more consumers at a faster pace than in the past. This has resulted in an increase in the washing of synthetic garments, which has been identified as the largest contributor to microplastic pollution in our oceans.
There are several solutions proposed to address the issue of microfiber pollution. Some suggest that prevention strategies should be source-directed, placing responsibility on the textile and apparel industry rather than consumers. Others advocate for more systematic studies to assess the relationship between individual textile parameters and their influence on microfiber shedding, as well as the development of standardized analytical methods for textile microfibres and nanofibres.
Overall, microfiber pollution from the textile industry poses a significant threat to the environment and human health, and addressing it requires a combination of industry initiatives and further research.
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Environmental impact of cotton production
Cotton is the most common non-food crop in the world, with cotton production using 2.5% of the world's farmland. Half of all textiles produced are made from cotton. Cotton is a water-intensive crop, requiring 347 gallons of water per pound. Cotton production is responsible for 25% of global insecticide use and 10-16% of pesticide use. Cotton cultivation has led to the degradation of soil quality, resulting in exhausted fields and expansion into new areas, which causes the destruction of local habitats and affects biodiversity.
The diversion of water and its pollution by cotton growing has impacted major ecosystems such as the Aral Sea in Central Asia, the Indus Delta in Pakistan, and the Murray Darling River in Australia. Cotton production and processing use a large amount of water, with some experts arguing that cotton is the largest user of water among all agricultural commodities. Inefficient water management and surface and groundwater diversion to irrigate cotton fields lead to freshwater loss through evaporation.
Cotton's environmental impact is also due to the use of agrochemicals, especially pesticides. The World Wildlife Fund (WWF) has been working with various stakeholders to promote more ecologically and ethically sound cotton production methods through the Better Cotton Initiative. Farmers who adopt these practices grow healthier cotton with less pesticide, fertilizer, and water overuse.
The fashion industry, which is largely driven by textiles, contributes significantly to environmental issues. The production and distribution of crops, fibers, and garments used in fashion result in water, air, and soil degradation. The industry is responsible for 20% of global wastewater, with textile dyeing and finishing causing a significant portion of this pollution. Microfiber pollution, caused by the shedding of microfibers from textiles throughout their life cycle, has also come under scrutiny in recent years.
Fast fashion, characterized by mass production, low prices, and high sales volumes, promotes overconsumption and contributes to the issue of textile waste. Less than 1% of clothing is recycled to make new clothes, and the incineration or landfilling of discarded clothing further contributes to air pollution and emissions of toxic gases.
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Waste and recycling
The disposal of textile waste has become a pressing global issue. The rising consumption of clothing and textile materials has resulted in high waste generation, with the average US consumer throwing away approximately 81.5 pounds of clothes annually, leading to an estimated 11.3 million tons of textile waste in America alone. In 2018, 17 million tons of textile waste ended up in landfills, according to the Environmental Protection Agency, constituting 5.8% of the total municipal solid waste (MSW) generated that year. The main source of textiles in MSW is discarded clothing, but other sources include furniture, carpets, tires, footwear, and nondurable goods like sheets and towels.
Textile waste has severe environmental consequences. Textiles can take over 200 years to decompose in landfills, and the chemicals used in dyeing can leech into the ground, causing soil degradation and water pollution. When unsold clothing is burned, it pollutes the air, and microfibers released during washing enter water sources and the food chain. The fashion industry is responsible for 20% of global wastewater, with textile dyeing and finishing contributing to a significant portion of this.
To address the issue of textile waste, several strategies are being explored:
- Recycling and Upcycling: The recycling rate for textiles was only 14.7% in 2018, with 2.5 million tons recycled. However, some brands are actively promoting recycling and upcycling initiatives. For example, Patagonia launched Worn Wear, a platform for buying, trading, and selling second-hand goods, and Ecoalf creates textiles from recycled materials like fishing nets, coffee grounds, and plastic bottles.
- Extended Producer Responsibility: The EU has implemented measures to hold producers accountable for their products throughout their life cycle, including when they become waste. This includes separate collection, sorting, and recycling of textiles, with the aim of reducing textile waste and promoting reuse and recycling.
- Sustainable Practices: There is a growing emphasis on developing new business models for clothing rental, designing products for easier reuse and recycling (circular fashion), encouraging consumers to buy higher-quality, longer-lasting clothing (slow fashion), and steering consumer behavior towards more sustainable options.
- Innovative Technologies: Advanced recycling technologies, such as mechanical, chemical, and biological processes, are being explored to transform textile waste into value-added products like biofuels and bioplastics. Digital product development and 3D design technologies can also reduce the need for physical production.
- Policy Changes: MEPs have proposed tougher EU measures to curb excessive textile production and consumption, advocating for human, social, labor, environmental, and animal welfare standards in the industry. The EU Ecolabel highlights products that meet ecological criteria, helping consumers make sustainable choices.
These initiatives aim to reduce the environmental impact of the textile industry, promote circular economy principles, and foster more sustainable practices in the fashion and textile sectors.
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Frequently asked questions
No, it is not. While the fashion industry is responsible for 20% of global wastewater and 8% of global greenhouse gas emissions, it is not the second most polluting industry. In 2021, the World Economic Forum reported that the fashion industry is tied for the third most polluting industry, after construction and food.
The production and distribution of crops, fibres, and garments used in fashion contribute to water, air, and soil degradation. The use of synthetic fibres and the proliferation of microfibers across global water sources are also major factors in pollution. In addition, the fashion industry's reliance on coal and natural gas for electricity and heat contributes to greenhouse gas emissions.
Fast fashion has contributed to the increase in consumption and waste, with consumers being encouraged to frequently buy and discard clothes. This has led to an increase in textile waste, with only 2.5 million tons of 17 million tons of textile waste being recycled in 2018. Fast fashion has also accelerated the severity of extreme heat in temperate regions of North America and Europe due to the deforestation caused by the demand for rayon and viscose.
There are several strategies being proposed and implemented to reduce the environmental impact of the textile industry. These include developing new business models for clothing rental, designing products to make reuse and recycling easier, encouraging consumers to buy higher-quality clothing that lasts longer, and promoting sustainable fashion practices such as reducing waste and improving energy and water efficiency. The EU has also introduced the EU Ecolabel to give more visibility to products that include fewer harmful substances and cause less pollution.
Several companies are integrating sustainability principles into their business strategies. For example, H&M has a garment collection scheme, Guess is involved in a wardrobe recycling program, and Patagonia produces jackets using polyester from recycled bottles. Smaller companies such as Freitag, Indosole, and Novel Supply are also building sustainability into their business models, with Freitag upcycling truck tarpaulins and seat belts to make bags and backpacks, Indosole making shoes from discarded tires, and Novel Supply offering a take-back scheme for customers to return their clothes.
