Helena Joyce
The fashion industry has long been associated with glamorous lifestyles and trendy designs, but it also has a darker side: it is a major contributor to environmental pollution. Fast fashion, in particular, has been singled out as a significant polluter, with its cheap materials, rapid manufacturing, and disposal culture taking a toll on the planet. The statistics are grim: the industry is responsible for up to 10% of global carbon emissions, 20% of industrial water pollution, and a growing waste generation problem. With consumers demanding change, the fashion world is slowly responding, but is it enough to curb the industry's destructive practices and environmental impact? This question remains at the heart of the debate surrounding fashion's role in pollution and climate change.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Global carbon emissions | 2-10% |
| Global industrial water pollution | 20% |
| Global microplastic pollution in oceans | 35% |
| Global solid waste per year | 92 million tons |
| Global water consumption in 2015 | 79 billion cubic meters |
| Water needed to make a pair of jeans | 2000 gallons |
| Global textile production in 2018 | 13kg per year |
| Global consumption of apparel | 62 million tons per year |
| Global clothing production in the world | 65% |
| Global microplastic losses to the ocean | 9% |
| Global water used industrially | one-tenth |
| Global water used for cotton production | 95% |
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What You'll Learn
Fast fashion is the second-largest polluter
Cotton, a primary material in fast fashion, is extremely water-intensive. Producing a single cotton t-shirt requires 2,706 litres of water, while a pair of jeans needs 7,570 litres. This excessive water consumption raises concerns about the sustainability of cotton. Polyester, another major fabric, has a large grey water footprint due to its chemical dyeing requirements and contributes to global microplastic pollution in oceans.
The fast-fashion business model nurtures a throwaway culture, contributing to overconsumption. The average American buys around 68 pieces of clothing per year, compared to 12 pieces in the 1980s. The number of times a garment is worn has declined by 36% in 15 years, leading to increased waste generation and environmental degradation.
To address these issues, alternatives to fast fashion, such as recommerce, slow fashion, recycling, upcycling, and supporting sustainable fashion brands, are being promoted. Some companies, including H&M and Guess, have implemented garment collection and recycling schemes. Entrepreneurs are also creating innovative solutions, such as shoes made from recycled plastic and ocean waste, to reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry.
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Cotton and polyester's environmental impact
Cotton and polyester are two of the most commonly used materials in the fashion industry, with cotton being used more frequently in fast fashion manufacturing. The production of a single cotton T-shirt and a pair of jeans requires 2,706 and 7,570 litres of water, respectively, according to one source, while another source estimates that up to 3,000 gallons of water are needed to make a single cotton T-shirt. This excessive water consumption highlights the environmental impact of cotton and raises questions about its sustainability. Cotton also has a negative impact on the environment due to the use of herbicides and chemical defoliants, which are often used to aid mechanical cotton harvesting and have detrimental effects on both the environment and human health. Additionally, the development of genetically modified cotton adds another layer of environmental concern.
On the other hand, polyester is made from petrochemicals and is non-biodegradable. It is often favoured for its efficiency in production, as it can be produced more efficiently than cotton or wool. However, polyester is criticised for its environmental impact during its production, particularly its contribution to global warming and fossil fuel usage. The dyeing process for polyester also contributes to water pollution, as it requires chemical dyes and cannot be dyed naturally. Polyester clothes shed microfibres, with 40-60% of microplastics emitted during the first wash, leading to synthetic fibres being responsible for 35% of global microplastic pollution in oceans.
While cotton and polyester both have environmental impacts, it is important to note that the fashion industry as a whole is working towards sustainability. Companies such as H&M, Guess, and Patagonia have implemented initiatives such as garment collection schemes, wardrobe recycling programmes, and the use of recycled polyester. Additionally, smaller companies like Freitag, Indosole, and Novel Supply are building sustainability into their business models through upcycling and take-back schemes. These efforts showcase the industry's recognition of the need for change and its commitment to reducing the environmental impact of fashion.
In conclusion, both cotton and polyester have their own unique environmental impacts. Cotton contributes to water consumption, the use of chemicals, and genetic modification, while polyester is associated with non-biodegradability, global warming, and water pollution. However, the fashion industry is actively working towards sustainability by integrating recycled materials, repurposing existing resources, and adopting more eco-friendly practices. These efforts are crucial in mitigating the environmental consequences of the industry and ensuring a more sustainable future for fashion.
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The throwaway culture and overconsumption
The fashion industry is often criticised for its environmentally destructive practices and its contribution to global carbon emissions. Fast fashion, in particular, has been identified as a significant driver of overconsumption and a throwaway culture. This is due to the affordability of fast fashion items and the rapid turnover of trends, which encourage consumers to constantly buy new clothes to keep up with the latest styles. As a result, the global per capita production of textiles has increased significantly, from 5.9 kg per year in 1975 to 13 kg per year in 2018. The average American, for example, buys around 68 pieces of clothing per year, compared to only 12 pieces in the 1980s. This has led to a substantial increase in textile production and waste, with one study predicting that 15% of fabric used in garment manufacturing is wasted.
The environmental impact of this throwaway culture is significant. The fashion industry is a major consumer of water, using around 79 billion cubic meters of water in 2015, which is more than the amount used for electricity production. Cotton, a primary material in fast fashion, requires a large amount of water to produce, with a single cotton t-shirt requiring 2,706 litres of water to make. The dyeing and finishing processes used in clothing production also require significant water resources and contribute to water pollution. In addition to water consumption, the fashion industry is a major contributor to global wastewater, with an estimated 20% of global wastewater attributed to the industry. This wastewater is often released into landfills, further contributing to environmental degradation.
The use of synthetic fibres such as polyester and nylon in fast fashion is also a concern. These non-biodegradable materials are a significant source of microplastic pollution in oceans, with synthetic fibres responsible for 35% of global microplastic pollution. The washing of polyester clothes also releases microfibres, further contributing to the pollution of our oceans.
To address these issues, there have been calls for a shift away from the "'take, make and dispose' model that currently dominates the fashion industry. This includes encouraging consumers to buy less and choose more sustainable options when they do need to purchase new items. Some companies are also integrating sustainability principles into their business strategies, such as implementing garment collection schemes and recycling programmes. Additionally, some entrepreneurs are creating innovative solutions, such as using recycled materials to make new clothing items.
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Water pollution and wastewater
The fashion industry is a major contributor to water pollution and wastewater. It is the second biggest consumer of water after agriculture, using 93 billion cubic meters of water annually. This is enough for 5 million people to survive. The industry's water consumption has serious environmental implications, particularly in cotton-growing countries, where water shortages are already a concern.
Cotton, a primary material in the fashion industry, requires large amounts of water for irrigation and treatment, depleting local freshwater and groundwater resources. To meet the high demand for cotton, pesticides and fertilisers are often used, which damage soil quality and destroy underground microbial communities. The contaminated water runoff from these agrochemicals pollutes nearby water sources, posing threats to local biodiversity and human health.
The dyeing and treatment processes in the fashion industry are also major contributors to water pollution. These processes release colourants, oil, phenol, dyes, pesticides, heavy metals, and other chemicals into wastewater. If untreated, these pollutants can contaminate nearby water sources, including groundwater and streams used for irrigation, thereby contaminating food sources with carcinogenic chemicals.
The production of synthetic fabrics, such as polyester and nylon, also contributes to water pollution. Wastewater from synthetic fabric production releases arsenic, benzene, lead, and other toxic waste into water sources. These synthetic fibres are non-biodegradable and are responsible for 35% of global microplastic pollution in oceans.
The fast fashion business model exacerbates these issues by encouraging overconsumption and rapid production cycles. Major fast fashion brands such as H&M, Zara, and GAP have been criticised for their role in increasing the environmental footprint of the fashion industry.
However, there are efforts to address these issues. Some companies are integrating sustainability principles into their business models, such as garment collection schemes and recycling programmes. Additionally, there is a growing trend towards sustainable fashion labels that strive to reduce their environmental impact. Consumers are also becoming more aware of the need for a shift in consumer culture, including a focus on long-term use, repairing, and purchasing second-hand clothing.
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Alternatives to fast fashion
Fast fashion is a major contributor to environmental degradation, with its cheap materials, rapid manufacturing, and disposal culture. It is the second-largest polluting industry, responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions, 20% of industrial water pollution, and 35% of microplastic pollution in oceans.
Slow Fashion
Slow fashion is about buying clothes meant to last a long time, reducing the overall carbon footprint. This includes buying second-hand or pre-owned clothing, which extends the product's lifecycle. Mending and repairing old clothes is another way to prolong their use instead of buying new ones. Some brands, like Patagonia and Red Wing Boots, offer repair and restoration services for their products.
Sustainable Materials
Choosing brands that use sustainable materials is essential. This includes companies that source ethically grown and harvested natural materials, such as Pact, which uses certified organic and fair-trade cotton. Additionally, look for brands that use reclaimed or recycled fabrics, like Patagonia, which uses polyester from recycled bottles, and Indosole, which makes shoes from discarded tyres.
Recommerce, Recycling, and Upcycling
Encourage the practice of recommerce by buying from thrift stores or online platforms that sell second-hand clothing. Recycling and upcycling are also great alternatives. For example, the Swiss firm Freitag upcycles truck tarpaulins and seat belts to make bags and backpacks.
Support Sustainable Brands
Seek out brands that integrate sustainability into their business models, such as those offering fair wages and safe working conditions to their employees and those that minimise their carbon footprint and environmental impact. Consumers can also support sustainable fashion initiatives like the UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion, which aims to address the destructive practices of the fashion industry.
Mindful Purchasing
As a consumer, be mindful of your purchasing habits. Reduce overconsumption by buying fewer but higher-quality items. Also, be aware of where your clothes come from and the impact of their production. Less is always more when it comes to fashion's environmental impact.
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