Meghan Hodges
The fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world, responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions, 20% of industrial water pollution, and 35% of microplastics in the ocean. With the rise of fast fashion, the world consumes 80 billion new pieces of clothing annually, a 400% increase in consumption over the last two decades. The environmental cost of this is high, with textile manufacturing and fibre production causing toxic substances to leach into the soil, reducing fertility and biodiversity. The tanning process for leather is also toxic, with the chemicals used contaminating water sources. As consumers worldwide continue to buy more clothes, the growing market for cheap items and new styles is taking a toll on the environment, leading to irreversible environmental damage and exacerbating the effects of climate change.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Fashion's share of global carbon emissions | 10% |
| Fashion's share of industrial water pollution | 20% |
| Water needed to make a pair of jeans | 3,781 litres |
| Carbon emissions from making a pair of jeans | 33.4 kg |
| Water consumed by clothing and textile industry | 215 trillion litres per year |
| Increase in global textile production from 1975 to 2018 | 5.9kg per year to 13kg per year |
| Increase in global apparel consumption | 62 million tonnes per year to 102 million tonnes by 2030 |
| Increase in clothing purchases in 2014 compared to 2000 | 60% |
| Average time clothes bought in 2014 were kept compared to clothes bought in 2000 | Half as long |
| Share of microplastics in ocean pollution from synthetic textiles | 35% |
| Share of plastic waste from clothing and textiles | 11% |
| Share of textile fibres made from recycled sources in 2023 | 8% |
| Share of fibre market from textile-to-textile recycling | <1% |
| Annual material value loss from lack of fibre recycling | >$100 billion |
| Amount of additional annual funding needed to make the textile value chain more sustainable | $20-30 billion |
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Water pollution
The fashion industry is a major contributor to water pollution, with its water-intensive production processes and the use of toxic chemicals. It is the second-largest consumer of water and is responsible for 20% of global wastewater. The industry's water pollution is driven by fabric dyeing and treatment practices, which generate about 20% of the world's wastewater. The dyeing process releases harmful chemicals and colorants into the water, including oil, phenol, dyes, pesticides, and heavy metals such as copper, mercury, chromium, and lead. These pollutants contaminate nearby water sources and can even be used for irrigating crops, thereby contaminating food sources with carcinogenic chemicals.
The fast fashion business model exacerbates water pollution by mass-producing clothing at low costs, leading to overconsumption and a throwaway culture. Consumers today purchase 60% more clothing than they did 15 years ago, and clothing waste has increased due to early discardment, overproduction, and cheap fabrication. The constant need for new designs and the short lifespan of garments contribute to the pollution of water sources.
Textile production and the use of synthetic textiles are also significant factors in water pollution. Washing synthetic products releases microplastics and microfibers into the water, endangering marine life and accumulating in the food chain. The production of synthetic textiles releases arsenic, benzene, and other toxic waste into water sources. Additionally, the farming of natural fibers, such as cotton, contributes to water pollution through the use of pesticides and fertilizers, which contaminate surrounding waterways.
The fashion industry's water pollution has detrimental effects on the environment and human health. It endangers marine life, contaminates food sources, and poses health risks to local residents and workers, including those involved in the garment production process.
While some companies have acknowledged their role in water pollution and have taken steps to reduce their impact, there is still a long way to go in ensuring a more sustainable and eco-conscious fashion industry. Consumers can play a role by embracing sustainable habits, such as choosing eco-friendly products, reducing single-use plastics, and prioritizing sustainable fashion options.
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Carbon emissions
The fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world, second only to the oil industry. It is responsible for up to 10% of global carbon emissions, with some sources stating that this figure could be as high as 25% by 2050. This is due to the industry's complex supply chains, energy-intensive production methods, and frequent use of air travel during the manufacturing process. The fashion industry's carbon emissions are also influenced by the amount of waste sent to landfill, with 87% of fibre input used for clothing being incinerated or disposed of in a landfill.
The rise of fast fashion has been a significant contributor to the increase in the fashion industry's carbon emissions. Fast fashion involves the constant provision of new styles at low prices, leading to a boom in the quantity of clothes produced and thrown away. The average person today buys 60% more clothing than in 2000, and global garment production doubled between 2000 and 2015. This has resulted in a large amount of textile waste, with the fashion industry generating 92 million tonnes of waste per year, and this is expected to grow by 60% by 2030.
The way people get rid of unwanted clothes has also changed, with items being thrown away rather than donated. Less than half of used clothes are collected for reuse or recycling, and only 1% of used clothes are recycled into new clothes. The fast fashion business model has also led to a consistent throughput of natural resources, with the growing demand for clothing resulting in increased ecological degradation and the occurrence of climate change.
To reduce the fashion industry's carbon emissions, large-scale systemic change is needed. This includes the development of sustainable fashion systems, the use of new materials to make clothing more durable, and the extension of the service life of clothing through rental and second-hand trading models. Individual behaviour change is also important, with consumers being encouraged to buy less, shop second-hand, and research the environmental impact of brands before purchasing.
In summary, the fashion industry is a major contributor to global carbon emissions, and its impact is only expected to grow without significant systemic change and a shift in consumer behaviour.
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Textile waste
The fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions, emitting 1.2 billion tonnes of carbon dioxide per year. This is more than the carbon emissions from international flights and maritime shipping combined. The industry is also the second-largest consumer of water worldwide, requiring 700 gallons of water to produce a single cotton shirt and 2,000 gallons to produce a pair of jeans.
The waste problem is exacerbated by the fact that most discarded clothing is not recycled. Globally, only 12% of clothing materials are recycled, and in the US, just 15% of textiles are theoretically recycled. Of those, up to half are shipped to other countries, particularly in the Global South, where they end up in landfills. This export of waste has detrimental effects on the recipient countries. For example, in Ghana, the low-quality clothing sent from abroad often goes directly into landfills or open-air dumps, leading to air, soil, and groundwater pollution. The decomposition of these textiles releases gases and chemical leachates that negatively impact the environment and the health of humans and other species.
To address the issue of textile waste, some initiatives have been implemented. The European Commission has introduced a strategy to make textiles more durable, repairable, reusable, and recyclable, and the UN has launched the Alliance for Sustainable Fashion to coordinate efforts across agencies to make the industry less harmful. Additionally, the EU has implemented the waste directive, which includes extended producer responsibility schemes, aiming to reduce textile waste and improve recycling practices.
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Leather production
Leather is one of the world's most popular textile materials, but its production harms animals, the planet, and the workers who manufacture it. The leather industry plays a significant part in the environmental damage caused by animal agriculture, such as land use, deforestation, and water pollution.
Greenhouse Gas Emissions
The livestock farming that is inherent to the leather industry is a significant contributor to greenhouse gas emissions, particularly methane and nitrous oxide, which have higher global warming potentials than carbon dioxide. According to the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), livestock contributes about 14.5% of anthropogenic greenhouse gas emissions, with cattle farming being a major component due to enteric fermentation and manure management.
Deforestation
Cattle ranching necessitates large areas of land, frequently resulting in deforestation, especially in tropical areas like the Amazon rainforest. In fact, cattle ranching is responsible for 80% of deforestation in the Amazon and contributes to significant biodiversity loss, increased fire risk, and soil erosion.
Water Pollution
The tanning process used in leather production generates a large amount of water pollution. A report supported by the European Commission found that tanning 1 kg of leather uses up to 2.5 kg of chemical substances and up to 250 liters of water, generating up to 6.1 kg of solid waste. Improperly disposed of solid waste can produce methane emissions during decomposition, while untreated liquid waste releases harmful chemicals into the environment.
Health Hazards
The tanning process involves the use of numerous toxic chemicals, including chromium, formaldehyde, arsenic, and cyanide-based dyes. People who work in and live near tanneries are exposed to these toxic chemicals, and many have died of cancer possibly caused by this exposure. Studies have found increased incidences of leukemia and colorectal cancer among residents in areas near tanneries.
Alternatives to Animal-Based Leather
Addressing the environmental and ethical issues associated with leather production requires a multifaceted approach, including improving livestock farming practices, adopting more sustainable tanning technologies, enhancing waste management, and exploring alternatives to animal-based leather. There are now many sustainable vegan leather options available, made from materials such as recycled plastic, pineapples, cork, mushrooms, and polyurethane, which contribute less to water pollution, water depletion, and greenhouse gas emissions.
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Cotton farming
Cotton is the most widely used natural fibre globally, and it is often perceived as a benign and preferable alternative to synthetic fibres like polyester. However, cotton farming has several negative environmental impacts. Firstly, cotton farming is a water-intensive process. Cotton cultivation occupies 2.5% of the world's arable land but consumes 200,000 tons of pesticides and 8 million tons of fertilisers annually. It is estimated that the production of a single cotton t-shirt requires around 700 gallons of water, or 2700 litres according to the WWF, which is enough water for one person to drink at least eight cups per day for three and a half years.
However, there are efforts to promote better ways of growing cotton. The Better Cotton Initiative, supported by IKEA and the WWF, encourages farmers to minimise the harmful impact of crop protection practices, use water efficiently, and reduce the use of pesticides and fertilisers. Farmers who adopt these practices are growing healthier cotton with higher yields and an average 11% increase in income. Organic cotton consumes 62% less energy and 88% less water than regular cotton, and it does not strain rivers and seas as 80% of organic cotton is rain-fed.
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Frequently asked questions
The fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions, emitting 1.2 billion tonnes of carbon dioxide per year.
The fashion industry is the second-largest consumer of water worldwide, using 79 billion cubic meters of water in 2015, which is about one-tenth of industrially used water.
The fashion industry is responsible for 20% of industrial water pollution worldwide. Textile dyeing is the world's second-largest polluter of water, as the water used in the process is often dumped into ditches, streams, or rivers.
Synthetic fibres like polyester, nylon, and acrylic take hundreds of years to biodegrade and are the primary reason for microplastics entering oceans, accounting for 35% of all microplastics.
Leather production requires large amounts of feed, land, water, and fossil fuels to raise livestock. The tanning process is toxic as the chemicals used are not biodegradable and contaminate water sources.
