Bronte Wells
The fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world, with fashion production comprising 10% of total global carbon emissions. The industry is the second-largest consumer of water, requiring about 700 gallons to produce one cotton shirt and 2,000 gallons to produce a pair of jeans. Textile dyeing is the world's second-largest polluter of water, and the use of synthetic fibres such as polyester and nylon, which take hundreds of years to biodegrade, has transformed the fashion industry. The fast fashion business model has accelerated environmental degradation, with the number of new garments made per year nearly doubling over the past two decades and global fashion consumption increasing by 400%. The production and distribution of crops, fibres, and garments used in fashion contribute to various forms of environmental pollution, including water, air, and soil degradation.
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Water pollution
The fashion industry pollutes water at all stages of the value chain. Firstly, in the agricultural stage, cotton farming has a significant impact on the global water crisis. Cotton is the most commonly used natural fiber in the fashion industry, and it requires large amounts of water for irrigation and treatment, depleting local freshwater and groundwater resources. To increase cotton output, pesticides and fertilizers are often used, which, in addition to damaging soil quality and destroying underground microbial communities, pollute nearby water sources through agricultural runoff.
Secondly, in the manufacturing stage, the dyeing and finishing process is responsible for over 20% of global industrial water pollution due to the toxic and hazardous chemicals used. The wastewater from the production of synthetic fabrics, which requires 70 million barrels of oil per year, releases lead, arsenic, benzene, and other pollutants into water sources. This wastewater is often dumped into ditches, streams, or rivers, or, in countries like China and India, where most clothes are made, discharged directly into rivers and waterways.
Lastly, in the consumer stage, washing clothes releases 500,000 tons of microfibers into the ocean each year, and the disposal of synthetic fabrics contributes to water pollution as they take hundreds of years to break down, releasing microplastics and other harmful chemicals into the environment.
However, some fashion brands are taking steps to reduce their environmental impact. Companies like Patagonia and Eileen Fisher are using sustainable materials and eco-friendly production methods, while others, like Gap Inc. and H&M, have enforced measures to reduce water use and contamination across their manufacturing processes.
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Carbon emissions
The fashion industry is the second-largest industrial polluter, accounting for 10% of global carbon emissions, which is more than emissions from air travel. This figure is projected to increase to 25% or even 26% by 2050. The industry's carbon emissions are influenced by the amount of waste sent to landfill, CO2 emissions during manufacturing and transportation processes, water pollution from dyeing processes, and microfibre pollution.
The fast-fashion business model has been a key driver of the fashion industry's carbon emissions. The rapid design, production, distribution, and marketing of clothing have led to an increase in energy consumption and carbon emissions at all stages of a product's lifecycle. The proliferation of this business model has also resulted in a consistent throughput of natural resources, contributing to both ecological degradation and the occurrence of climate change.
The production of synthetic fibres, such as polyester and nylon, has also contributed significantly to the industry's carbon emissions. The use of synthetic fibres has grown exponentially, and polyester has now surpassed cotton as the most widely used fashion fabric. Carbon emissions from synthetics are much higher than those from natural fibres like cotton because they are made from fossil fuels.
Extending the lifecycle of clothing can drastically reduce its carbon footprint. Buying higher-quality materials that last longer and can be easily repaired can help reduce the carbon footprint associated with landfill pollution. Additionally, consumers can play a role in reducing the industry's carbon footprint by making conscious choices, such as researching brands' environmental impact, opting for sustainable alternatives, and reducing overconsumption.
Initiatives like the UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion are calling for a new textile economy, exploring the use of new materials to make clothing more durable and recyclable. Some leading brands have answered this call and are working to identify fibre alternatives and develop more eco-friendly processes.
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Overproduction
This overproduction has severe environmental consequences, contributing to the global waste pollution crisis. The unsold garments end up in landfills, releasing harmful chemicals and microplastics into the soil and water. The fashion industry's reliance on synthetic fibres, such as polyester, nylon, and acrylic, exacerbates the problem as these materials take hundreds of years to biodegrade. The washing of these synthetic textiles also contributes to water pollution, releasing microplastics into the ocean.
The production of excess clothing further strains natural resources, with the fashion industry being the second-largest consumer of water. It is estimated that 700 gallons of water are required to produce one cotton shirt, and 2,000 gallons for a pair of jeans. The industry also contributes to the depletion of non-renewable sources and the emission of greenhouse gases.
To address overproduction, some have suggested extending producer responsibility (EPR) with financial levies on fashion brands to encourage initiatives like textile-to-textile recycling, upcycling, and resale. However, for meaningful change, a shift in the economic incentives of overproduction is necessary, as well as greater transparency and honesty from companies about their production volumes.
While the fashion industry and consumers have expressed a priority for sustainability, the fast fashion business model continues to encourage overproduction and excessive consumption. This has resulted in a system where consumers buy more while wearing fewer items, contributing to the global waste pollution crisis. Thus, addressing overproduction in the fashion industry requires a combination of legislative changes, economic incentives, and a shift in consumer behaviour towards more sustainable practices.
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Synthetic fibres
The production and use of synthetic fibres have a significant impact on the environment. Firstly, the extraction of raw materials, such as oil and gas, can disrupt ecosystems and lead to the potential loss of food, medicines, and natural fibres. Oil refineries also contribute to groundwater, air, and soil pollution, with communities living near them facing higher health risks. Secondly, the production of synthetic fibres requires a significant amount of energy, leading to the emission of greenhouse gases and pollutants. The dyeing process, which uses synthetic dyes to permeate the fibres, further contributes to environmental issues, including water pollution.
The use of synthetic fibres in clothing also has environmental implications. Washing synthetic clothing releases microfibres into the ocean, which can fragment into nano-sized particles and enter ecosystems. These microfibres have been found in various water sources, including freshwater reserves, and can absorb other substances, such as oil residue, further polluting the environment. The slow decomposition of synthetic fibres, which can take hundreds to thousands of years, adds to their environmental impact.
Some brands are attempting to address the issue of synthetic fibre pollution. For example, some companies plan to use "recycled" polyester made from PET bottles to embrace more "sustainable" synthetics. However, this approach has been criticised as a false solution that does not address the core plastic pollution problem. Additionally, only six companies—Dressmann, Esprit, Hugo Boss, Puma, Reformation, and United Colors of Benetton—have indicated a desire to avoid or reduce synthetics altogether.
Overall, synthetic fibres have become integral to the fashion industry, but their production, use, and disposal contribute significantly to pollution and environmental degradation.
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Worker exploitation
The fashion industry is one of the most labour-intensive industries in the world, with each piece of clothing handmade by workers in countries such as Bangladesh, India, China, Vietnam, and Indonesia. These countries supply the low-cost labour that the fast-fashion industry demands. The industry employs approximately 75 million factory workers worldwide, yet less than 2% earn a living wage.
The exploitation of garment workers is evident in Bangladesh, a country heavily reliant on the industry. An Oxfam report reveals that 91% of Bangladeshi garment workers struggle to afford enough food for themselves and their families, and 25% face some form of abuse. Despite contributing nearly 16% to the nation's GDP and 84% of exports, workers remain poorly paid. In 2023, widespread protests over inadequate wages resulted in the deaths of at least four garment workers and the imprisonment of over 100 workers and advocates. Although the Bangladeshi government responded by raising the minimum wage by 56% to $113 per month, this amount still falls short of the $210 monthly living wage required to lift workers out of poverty.
In California, the Transparency in Supply Chains Act has been in place since 2010, and the Garment Worker Protection Act was created in 2021. In 2022, New York enacted Assembly Bill A8352, requiring fashion retailers and manufacturers to disclose their environmental and social due diligence policies. Despite these regulations, the enforcement and sanctioning power have been weak, allowing human rights abuses to continue.
In Europe, garment workers' wages are well below the poverty line. The Good Clothes Fair Pay campaign is a European citizens' initiative calling for legislation to ensure fair wages for garment and textile workers worldwide. According to Fashion Revolution, most garment workers earning low wages cannot afford basic needs such as food, housing, and healthcare. Their Fashion Transparency Index revealed that 99% of major fashion firms underreport the number of workers paid a living wage, and only 23% explain the prevalence of modern slavery and risk factors in their production chain.
The fast fashion industry's pursuit of the latest trends and rapid production of clothing has led to the exploitation of millions of workers, especially women, with poor wages and unsafe working conditions. Garment workers endure long hours, minimal pay, and gender-based harassment. In addition, the production of fast fashion clothing exposes workers to 8,000 synthetic chemicals, some of which are known to cause cancer.
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Frequently asked questions
The fashion industry is the second-largest polluter of local freshwater in the world, requiring about 700 gallons to produce one cotton shirt and 2000-3781 gallons of water to produce a pair of jeans. Globally, the clothing and textile industry consumes 215 trillion litres of water per year. The industry also dries up water sources and pollutes rivers and streams.
The fashion industry is a significant driver of greenhouse gas emissions, contributing to climate change through energy-intensive production. It emitted 2-4% of the world's total greenhouse gases in the late 2010s and is responsible for around 10% of global carbon emissions.
Cotton production degrades the quality of the soil, leading to exhausted fields and expansion into new areas. This expansion leads to the destruction of local habitats, and the associated pollution affects biodiversity.
The fashion industry contributes to plastic pollution through the use of synthetic fibres like polyester, nylon, and acrylic, which take hundreds of years to biodegrade. An estimated 60% of clothing and 70% of household textiles are made of synthetic fibres.
