Meghan Hodges
Fashion pollution has been a concern for quite some time now, with the rise of fast fashion and its devastating impact on the environment. Fast fashion, which emphasizes quick and cheap production to meet the latest trends, has led to increased consumption and waste, with harmful effects on both terrestrial and aquatic ecosystems. The fashion industry is the second-largest consumer industry of water and contributes significantly to global carbon emissions, water degradation, habitat destruction, and pollution. With the growing awareness of sustainability and the need to address overconsumption, counter-movements such as slow fashion and the promotion of sustainable practices have gained traction. However, the fashion industry's environmental impact has been a longstanding issue, with the development of synthetic textiles and the globalization of value chains further exacerbating its effects.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Environmental impact | Terrestrial and aquatic environmental damage, including water pollution, air pollution, and harm to wildlife |
| Fashion industry's contribution | Second-largest consumer industry of water, second-greatest polluter of local freshwater, and responsible for about 10% of global carbon emissions |
| Fast fashion's role | Mass production, low prices, high sales volumes, and frequent new collections contribute to waste and pollution |
| Textile production's impact | Demand for raw materials leads to habitat destruction, soil degradation, and water pollution |
| Synthetic fibres' effect | May contain plastic, contributing to non-biodegradable waste and microplastics in oceans |
| Consumer behaviour | Overconsumption and shorter clothing lifespans increase environmental harm |
| Solutions | Slow fashion movement, sustainable practices, clothing libraries, and business models for clothing rental |
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What You'll Learn
Fast fashion's environmental impact
Fast fashion is defined as "an approach to the design, creation, and marketing of clothing fashions that emphasizes making fashion trends quickly and cheaply available to consumers." The fast-fashion business model relies on the exploitation of resources and human labor to deliver garments following the latest trends to its consumers at an unprecedented rate. This rapid output of garments demands a large volume of raw materials, creating a significant amount of waste, pollution, and degradation to air, water, and wildlife habitats.
The environmental impact of fast fashion includes the depletion of non-renewable sources, the emission of greenhouse gases, and the use of massive amounts of water and energy. The fashion industry is the second-largest consumer industry of water, requiring about 700 gallons to produce one cotton shirt and 2,000 gallons of water to produce a pair of jeans. Textile dyeing is the world's second-largest polluter of water, as the leftover water from the dyeing process is often dumped into ditches, streams, or rivers. The fashion industry is also responsible for about 10% of global carbon emissions, more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined.
The fast-fashion industry's use of synthetic materials, such as polyester, nylon and acrylic, contributes to the proliferation of microplastics and microfibers in waterways and oceans. These microplastics and microfibers are ingested by marine life, leading to the absorption of micro-pollutants in a process called biomagnification. The use of synthetic materials also increases carbon emissions, as these materials are often derived from fossil fuels and release more carbon emissions during production than natural fibers like cotton.
The fast-fashion industry's negative environmental impact has led to the rise of the slow fashion movement, which seeks to oppose fast fashion by promoting the production and sale of sustainable clothing created with eco-friendly materials. Slow fashion advocates for a more mindful approach to consumption, encouraging consumers to buy less and choose higher-quality, versatile clothing items that will last longer. The slow fashion movement also encourages purchasing clothing from local sources, as locally made pieces are often of higher quality and produced with more sustainable practices than factory-made clothing.
To reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry, consumers can play a role by being more mindful of their purchasing decisions. This includes supporting brands that prioritize sustainability and transparency in their supply chain practices, labor conditions, and environmental impacts. Consumers can also extend the life of clothing by shopping second-hand or participating in clothing swaps, reducing the demand for new, mass-produced items.
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Textile waste and recycling
The fashion industry has a significant environmental impact, with fashion production comprising about 10% of total global carbon emissions. The industry is also the second-biggest consumer of water, requiring about 700 gallons to produce one cotton shirt and 2,000 gallons of water to produce a pair of jeans. The World Resources Institute estimates that it takes 2,700 litres of water to make one cotton shirt.
Textile waste is a major contributor to the environmental impact of the fashion industry. In the US, the average consumer throws away approximately 81.5 pounds of clothes annually, leading to an estimated 11.3 million tons of textile waste in America alone. The EPA estimates that in 2018, 14.7% of all textile waste was recycled in the US, amounting to 2.5 million tons of materials. More than 11 million tons of textile waste was sent to landfills, or nearly 8% of all MSW landfilled that year. The EU generated an estimated 6.95 million tonnes of textile waste in 2020, or around 16kg per person. Of this, 4.4kg per person were collected separately for reuse and recycling, and 11.6kg per person ended up in mixed household waste.
The pollution introduced by the fashion industry has devastating impacts on both terrestrial and aquatic environments, with harmful effects linked to habitat degradation, the proliferation of chemicals and microplastics in waterways, and the increasing impact of climate change from anthropogenic greenhouse gas emissions. Animal-based textiles such as wool are responsible for greenhouse gas emissions, water pollution, widespread habitat loss from deforestation and grassland conversion, and other harms to wildlife. In fast fashion, wool is often blended with fibres derived from fossil fuels and coated with chemicals, further increasing the environmental cost of production and disposal.
The fashion industry's quick output of garments demands a large volume of raw materials, creating a significant amount of waste, pollution, and degradation to air, water, and wildlife habitats. The industry's poor-quality clothing contributes to the limited lifespans of garments, which often end up decomposing slowly in landfills or being incinerated. Fast fashion clothing has also become a notorious source of microplastics in marine environments as the cheap, plastic-based materials shed fibres that make their way to oceans. Microfibers have been found in the digestive tracts of widely consumed fish and shellfish, which are then consumed by humans, leading to the absorption of micro-pollutants in a process called biomagnification.
Some companies and consumers have made efforts to reduce waste and improve sustainability in the fashion industry. For example, Patagonia launched Worn Wear, an online platform where consumers can buy, trade, and sell second-hand Patagonia goods. The company also has physical pop-up stores for Worn Wear, where they buy back used products from customers, recycle, and redesign them. Ecoalf creates textiles from used fishing nets, coffee grounds, plastic bottles, and other recycled products. Madewell's recycling program uses jeans to build homes by recycling them into housing insulation.
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Water pollution and water usage
The fashion industry has long been a significant contributor to water pollution and water usage. Fashion production comprises 10% of total global carbon emissions, with the industry being the second-largest consumer of water and the second-greatest polluter of local freshwater in the world. The industry is responsible for the consumption of 79 trillion litres of water annually, contributing to about 20% of industrial wastewater.
Cotton is the most commonly used natural fibre in the fashion industry, and cotton farming has a significant impact on the global water crisis. Cotton from unsustainable sources uses large amounts of water for production, which is polluted with fertilisers and pesticides. To produce a single cotton shirt, about 700 gallons of water are needed. The use of fertilisers and toxic chemicals to produce cotton also severely contaminates water and has harmful effects on ecosystems.
Textile dyeing and finishing is also a major contributor to the industry's water pollution impacts. This process is responsible for over 20% of global industrial water pollution because of the toxic and hazardous chemicals used. The dyeing process releases colourants and harmful chemicals into wastewater when untreated.
The fast fashion business model relies on the exploitation of resources and human labour to deliver garments following the latest trends to its consumers at an unprecedented rate. This quick output of garments demands a large volume of raw materials, creating a significant amount of waste, pollution, and degradation to air, water and wildlife habitats. Consumers today purchase 60% more clothing than they did 15 years ago, while clothing waste has also increased due to early discardment, overproduction and cheap fabrication.
To address these issues, companies should reduce their water usage and contamination, and focus on producing quality garments that stay in style longer to reduce production and consumption. Sustainable cotton farming, such as switching to organic cotton, can help save water and reduce pollution by refraining from using fertilizers and pesticides. Consumers can also play a role by shifting towards the long-term use of quality garments, repairing or donating older garments, and purchasing second-hand clothing.
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Carbon emissions and energy usage
The fashion industry's carbon emissions are driven by fast fashion consumption, which has accelerated the entire supply chain, from production and logistics to consumption and discarding processes. The quick output of garments in fast fashion demands a significant volume of raw materials, leading to increased energy consumption and carbon emissions at all stages of a product's lifecycle. The production and transportation of jeans, for instance, contribute to 91% of the carbon footprint of fast fashion consumption.
The textile industry is a significant contributor to water pollution, with textile dyeing being the second-largest polluter of water. The use of synthetic fibers, agriculture pollution of fashion crops, and the proliferation of microfibers in global water sources also play a role in the industry's carbon emissions and environmental impact. Washing clothes releases 500,000 tons of microfibers into the ocean annually, equivalent to 50 billion plastic bottles.
To reduce their carbon footprint, the fashion industry and consumers must embrace decarbonization initiatives and sustainable practices. This includes improving energy efficiency, transitioning to renewable energy sources, reducing waste, and utilizing eco-friendly materials. Extending the lifecycle of garments by wearing them for longer or utilizing second-hand trading models can significantly reduce carbon emissions. Additionally, consumers can play a role by researching brands' environmental impact, choosing sustainable alternatives, and practicing energy-efficient washing methods.
If no significant changes are made, the fashion industry's carbon emissions are projected to increase. By 2030, emissions are estimated to reach 2.7 billion metric tons annually if no abatement actions are taken. However, if decarbonization initiatives continue at the current pace, emissions will be capped at 2.1 billion metric tons, similar to the current level. To align with the 1.5-degree pathway to mitigate climate change, the industry must intensify its abatement actions and scale up decarbonization efforts to reduce emissions to 1.1 billion metric tons by 2030.
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Synthetic fibres and microfibres
Synthetic fibres are human-made fibres that are used to produce fabrics like polyester and spandex. They are a major source of microplastic pollution, as they do not easily dissolve in water and can absorb other substances that leak into nature, including oil residue and pesticides. According to Roos et al. (2017), textiles made of synthetic fibres are responsible for a global discharge of between 0.2 and 0.5 million tonnes of microplastics into the oceans each year.
The production processes of synthetic fibres may also be responsible for the increased release of microfibres. Abrasive friction during production can contribute to microplastic formation, and alternative production processes or textile construction methods could help reduce microfibre release.
Microfibres have been found in seafood, drinking water, and the digestive tracts of widely consumed fish and shellfish. When these fish are consumed by humans, it leads to the absorption of micro-pollutants in a process called biomagnification. Techniques to address the environmental impacts of the fashion industry include using a marine algal bioabsorbent for dye removal.
While the effects of microfibres on human health are still being debated, some experts believe it is critical to examine the health risks associated with the chemical cocktails that microfibres can carry. Pesticides, for example, can be absorbed by microfibres in water and can cause neurological disorders.
To reduce the impact of synthetic fibres and microfibres on the environment and human health, conscious consumers can seek to reduce their consumption of plastic and plastic-derived materials in their clothing. Additionally, consumers can ask brands about the fibres they use, how they are processed, and how this impacts biodegradation.
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Frequently asked questions
Fashion pollution has been an issue since the development of synthetic textiles after World War II.
Fashion pollution is caused by a variety of factors, including the use of synthetic fibres, the agriculture pollution of fashion crops, and the proliferation of microfibres across global water sources. The fast fashion business model, which relies on mass production, low prices, and high sales volumes, has been identified as a major contributor to fashion pollution in recent years.
Fast fashion relies on the quick reproduction of trendy items, often at the expense of quality and labour conditions. The poor quality of fast fashion contributes to the limited lifespans of garments, which often end up in landfills or incinerated, releasing pollutants into the air and water sources.
Fashion pollution has led to habitat degradation, the proliferation of chemicals and microplastics in waterways, and the exacerbation of climate change through greenhouse gas emissions. The textile industry is the second greatest polluter of local freshwater in the world, contributing to about one-fifth of all industrial water pollution.
Addressing fashion pollution requires a shift towards sustainable fashion practices, such as reducing waste, improving energy and water efficiency, and using eco-friendly materials. Consumers can embrace the slow fashion movement, which focuses on purchasing higher-quality, locally-made clothing that will last longer and reduce pollution caused by the disposal of fast fashion items.
