Meghan Hodges
The textiles industry has a significant environmental impact. It is one of the most polluting industries, responsible for 8-10% of global carbon emissions, water pollution, air pollution, and solid waste pollution. Textile production requires large amounts of water, land, energy, and chemicals, leading to water shortages and pollution, as well as the release of harmful chemicals into the environment. The use of synthetic fibres and the washing of synthetic textiles contribute to the accumulation of microplastics in the oceans. Fast fashion has exacerbated these issues, with its mass production and frequent consumption resulting in increased waste and pollution. The environmental impact of the textiles industry has led to initiatives for more sustainable practices and circular business models.
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What You'll Learn
Water pollution from dyes and chemicals
Water is an essential resource for life on Earth and human development. The textile industry is one of the anthropogenic activities that is polluting our environment. The fashion industry is the second-largest consumer of water, and it is estimated that it takes 2,700 litres of water to make one cotton shirt. The textile sector was the third largest source of water degradation and land use in 2020.
Textile dyes are a significant contributor to water pollution. Approximately 20,000 tons of dyes are released as effluents from textile industries, and these dyes contain persistent pollutants such as aromatic compounds, pesticides, and heavy metals like lead, arsenic, and mercury. These toxic dyes contaminate water bodies and affect their physio-chemical properties. The reactive dye-containing effluents discharged from textile industries are responsible for almost 17-20% of global water pollution. The consistent efforts for the development of the textile industry have significantly contributed to the rise of environmental problems that adversely impact water sources.
The use of natural dyes, derived from plants, seeds, fruits, barks, lichens, and insects, has been suggested as a solution to reduce water pollution from textile dyes. While natural dyes have connotations of being wholesome and toxin-free, they still require a lot of water during production, and the fixative chemicals (mordants) used to bond the dye with the fabric can pollute groundwater and rivers if not disposed of responsibly.
Textile dye contaminants can increase the chemical oxygen demand in water bodies, affecting the growth, development, and reproductive potential of aquatic organisms. They can also fuel oxidative stress and multi-organ injuries in humans. Several bioremediation approaches, including the use of algae, fungi, bacteria, and biomembrane filtration techniques, have been tested to treat textile dye effluents. However, many of these approaches are still in the trial stage and require further development to become more efficient, cost-effective, and easy to implement.
The fast fashion industry has been identified as a significant contributor to water pollution from dyes and chemicals. The mass production and low prices of fast fashion promote frequent washing, which releases microplastics and microfibres into the oceans. The high volume of clothing produced and consumed by fast fashion also leads to increased textile waste, with an estimated 11.3 million tons of textile waste generated in America alone annually. The lack of infrastructure and the high costs associated with processing water waste contribute to the water pollution caused by the fashion industry.
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Greenhouse gas emissions
The textile industry is a significant contributor to global carbon emissions, with its complex supply chains and energy-intensive production methods. The apparel and footwear industries generate 8-10% of global carbon emissions, exceeding emissions from aviation and shipping combined. This equates to approximately 1.2 billion tons of CO2, or 10% of world GHG emissions. The production and manufacturing of textiles, particularly synthetic fibres, are the most ecologically damaging aspects, with major textile-producing countries like China, India, and Bangladesh relying on coal. The carbon footprint of a garment depends on the material, with synthetic fibres like polyester having a larger carbon footprint per kilogram than natural fibres like cotton.
Textile factories release untreated wastewater into public sewers, which eventually flow into rivers and seas, destroying biodiversity. The dyeing process is particularly polluting, as dyes are not easily biodegradable, and around 105 tonnes of dyes are released into the environment each year through 200 billion litres of wastewater. Washing synthetic textiles is another major source of pollution, as it releases microplastics and microfibres into the marine environment, contributing to the accumulation of more than half a million tonnes of microplastics on the ocean floor annually.
The transportation of fabrics and garments over long distances also contributes to the industry's carbon footprint. The growing demand for clothing, driven by the fast fashion business model, is exacerbating the problem, with the fashion industry projected to account for 25% of the world's carbon budget by 2050. The proliferation of fast fashion leads to increased consumption of natural resources, resulting in ecological degradation and climate change.
In the EU, textile purchases generated about 270 kg of CO2 emissions per person in 2020, amounting to 121 million tonnes of greenhouse gas emissions. The EU has introduced initiatives to promote sustainability, such as the EU Ecolabel, which highlights products that meet ecological criteria, and the EU Strategy on Sustainable and Circular Textiles, which aims to address the environmental impact of the industry through concrete legislation.
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Solid waste and microplastics
Textile waste includes not only discarded clothing but also the solid waste generated during the production process. The average US consumer throws away approximately 81.5 pounds of clothes annually, resulting in an estimated 11.3 million tons of textile waste in the US alone. In 2018, 17 million tons of textile waste ended up in landfills globally, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. The decomposition process of these textiles can take over 200 years, during which they release greenhouse gases like methane and leach toxic chemicals and dyes into the groundwater and soil.
Microplastics, another critical concern, are tiny pieces of non-biodegradable plastic that pollute our oceans, land, and air. The wearing and washing of textiles made from synthetic fibers are recognized sources of microplastic pollution. The majority of microplastics from textiles are released during the first few washes, and fast fashion, with its emphasis on mass production and low prices, contributes significantly to this issue. Each year, washing clothes releases between 200,000 and 500,000 tons of microfibres into the ocean, equivalent to 50 billion plastic bottles. These microplastics accumulate on the ocean floor, causing harm to ecosystems, animals, and people.
The impact of microplastics extends beyond the marine environment, as they can enter our food chain through the consumption of sea creatures, sea salt, and drinking water. Studies are ongoing to clarify the environmental spread and health effects of microfibre contamination in air, soil, and water, as well as their potential impacts on human health through the food chain.
To address the challenges posed by solid waste and microplastics in the textile industry, innovative waste management strategies and sustainable production and consumption practices are essential. The EU, for instance, is working towards a circular economy, aiming to reduce textile waste and increase recycling and the lifespan of textiles. Some companies are also taking steps to keep clothing out of landfills by changing their production methods and offering better disposal options for consumers.
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Energy-intensive production
The fashion industry is the second-largest consumer industry of water. Textile production consumes an incredible amount of clean water, land, and raw materials. Cotton cultivation, in particular, demands a substantial amount of water, and cotton plantations are often located in water-scarce regions. An estimated 2,700 litres of freshwater are needed to produce one cotton T-shirt, equivalent to enough drinking water for one person for 2.5 years.
Textile production is also an energy-intensive process. The apparel and footwear industries generate 8–10% of global carbon emissions, superseding emissions from the aviation and shipping industries combined. The production phase has the biggest environmental impact, accounting for fifty to eighty per cent of all environmental effects across a garment's entire lifecycle. This phase includes raw material extraction, processing, and manufacturing, which are highly intensive in terms of energy, water, and chemical use, often spread across multiple countries.
The textile industry's energy-intensive production methods are due in part to lengthy supply chains. The production and manufacturing of textiles often occur through geographically long and complex supply chains that include growers and processors of raw fibres, yarns and textiles, weavers, knitters, dyers and finishers, product manufacturers, and distributors. The logistical requirements of transporting goods globally at the various stages of production and distribution contribute to the carbon footprint of the industry.
The textile industry's energy-intensive production methods also contribute to water pollution. The industry is responsible for about 20% of global clean water pollution worldwide, with dye and finishing agents leaking into the environment. The process of dyeing fibres represents the most polluting step, as the dye is not easily biodegradable. It is estimated that around 105 tonnes of dyes are released into the environment each year through 200 billion litres of wastewater.
The production of plastic fibres into textiles is another energy-intensive process that requires large amounts of petroleum and releases volatile particulate matter and acids like hydrogen chloride. The use of synthetic fibres like polyester, nylon, and acrylic, which take hundreds of years to biodegrade, further contributes to the industry's energy intensity.
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Fast fashion and consumer behaviour
The fast-fashion industry is based on mass production, low prices, and high sales volumes. It is defined by new, trendy clothing sold at a low cost and designed to be worn only a few times. With fast fashion, consumers can purchase clothing faster, cheaper, and more conveniently than ever before. The industry has been bolstered by social media, with brands utilising the platform to market their products and social media influencers playing an important role in promoting them. Studies show that there is a positive correlation between the number of influencers consumers follow and the frequency with which they buy clothing.
However, the environmental impact of fast fashion is significant. The manufacturing of clothing is responsible for 2-8% of annual greenhouse gas emissions, and the fashion industry is the second-largest consumer of water, requiring about 700 gallons to produce one cotton shirt and 2,000 gallons of water to produce a pair of jeans. Textile purchases in the EU in 2020 generated about 270 kg of CO2 emissions per person, and the EU estimates that it takes 2,700 litres of fresh water to make one cotton shirt. The water leftover from the dyeing process is often dumped into ditches, streams, or rivers, and the dyeing and finishing of textiles are responsible for about 20% of global clean water pollution.
The fast-fashion industry also relies heavily on synthetic fibres like polyester, nylon, and acrylic, which take hundreds of years to biodegrade and release massive amounts of microplastics into the ocean during the first few washes. The production of synthetic fibres is an energy-intensive process that requires large amounts of petroleum and releases volatile particulate matter and acids like hydrogen chloride.
The shift towards fast fashion has resulted in a significant increase in textile waste, with consumers purchasing more clothing more frequently. The average US consumer throws away approximately 81.5 pounds of clothes annually, leading to an estimated 11.3 million tons of textile waste in America alone. In 2018, 17 million tons of textile waste ended up in landfills, and only 15% of used textiles are theoretically recycled.
While some argue that it is the responsibility of individuals to make informed and ethical purchasing decisions, others argue that fast fashion is a symptom of a larger systemic problem, such as globalisation, capitalism, and consumerism, and that collective action and systemic change are necessary to address the issue.
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Frequently asked questions
Textile production has a large environmental impact due to the high energy, water and chemical use, as well as the generation of textile waste and microfibre shedding into the environment.
Fast fashion has led to a boom in the quantity of clothes produced and thrown away, with an increase in the use of non-renewable sources, greenhouse gas emissions, water and energy consumption, and microplastics.
The textile industry is responsible for about 20% of global clean water pollution, with dye and finishing agents leaking into water sources. The industry also puts pressure on local water supplies, leading to shortages and further pollution.
The industry releases heavy pollutants such as nitrogen oxides and sulphur dioxide from energy production, as well as volatile particulate matter and acids like hydrogen chloride.
Some measures to reduce the environmental impact of the textile industry include the development of more sustainable business models, new raw material recovery technologies, and the implementation of pollution prevention technology. Consumers can also be more conscious of their purchases, opting for second-hand or sustainable clothing, and disposing of unwanted textiles properly.
