Textile Industry's Impact: Water Pollution And Its Solutions

The textile industry is a major contributor to water pollution, with textile production estimated to be responsible for about 20% of global clean water pollution from dyeing and finishing products. The fashion industry is the second-largest consumer of water, using 93 billion cubic meters annually, and has been linked to high levels of water pollution, contamination, and waste, with detrimental effects on the environment and human health.

The textile industry's water pollution is caused by the use of harmful chemicals and dyes in the manufacturing process, which are released into rivers and streams, as well as the large amounts of water required for irrigation and treatment, depleting local freshwater and groundwater resources. The runoff from agrochemical-contaminated water also pollutes nearby water sources, posing threats to local biodiversity and human health.

Additionally, the pollution generated by garment production has a devastating impact on the health of local people, animals, and ecosystems where the factories are located. Microfibre pollution from synthetic materials is another concern, as these fibres can take hundreds of years to decompose and can disrupt underwater ecosystems.

Cotton production

Cotton is the most widely used non-food product in the world, providing income for more than 250 million people and employing 7% of all workers in developing countries. It is also the most popular and profitable non-food crop globally, despite occupying only about 2.5% of arable land.

The heavy use of pesticides and synthetic fertilizers in conventional cotton farming also contributes to water pollution. These toxic chemicals contaminate rivers, lakes, wetlands, and underground aquifers, posing risks to biodiversity and human health. Cotton farming uses 24% of the world's insecticides and 11% of its pesticides, with glyphosate, diuron, and tribufos being considered human carcinogens. The intensive use of pesticides has also led to the development of herbicide-resistant weeds and insects, further complicating the issue of pest control in cotton cultivation.

The fashion industry, which includes cotton textile production, accounts for about 20% of industrial water pollution. The dyeing, bleaching, and chemical treatments that cotton undergoes contribute to this figure, as the wastewater from these processes contains pesticides, toxic dyes, chlorine, and other harmful substances.

To promote more sustainable cotton production, organizations like the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) are working with farmers, government agencies, buyers, and investors to encourage the adoption of better practices. The Better Cotton Initiative, supported by IKEA and other partners, promotes water efficiency, soil health, natural habitat conservation, and reduced use of pesticides and fertilizers. Organic cotton, which uses fewer chemicals and resources, is also gaining traction as a more sustainable alternative, with a 70% reduction in global warming potential compared to conventional cotton.

Synthetic fabric production

Synthetic fabrics, such as polyester and nylon, are derived from petroleum-based chemicals and have a significant water footprint throughout their production process. The extraction and processing of petroleum contribute to water pollution, and the dyeing and finishing stages of synthetic fabric production require large amounts of water, often resulting in the contamination of nearby water sources due to the release of harmful chemicals.

The dyeing process involves immersing the fabric in large vats of water mixed with dyes or pigments, and additional water is needed to treat the fabric to fix the colour. These processes can lead to high water usage and potential pollution from the discharge of dye wastewater. The finishing process involves treatments to improve the fabric's appearance, texture, or performance, including water-intensive processes like washing and chemical treatments.

The environmental implications of synthetic fabrics are vast. Washing synthetic products contributes to the accumulation of more than half a million tonnes of microplastics on the ocean floor every year. These microplastics can end up in the food chain, posing a threat to marine life and human health.

To address these issues, sustainable alternatives to synthetic fabrics are being explored. Natural fibres like organic cotton, hemp, and linen have a lower water footprint and are biodegradable. Innovative technologies are also being developed to reduce water consumption in synthetic fabric production, such as closed-loop systems that recycle and reuse water.

Contaminated wastewater

The textile industry is a significant contributor to water pollution, with fabric dying and treatment practices generating about 20% of the world's wastewater. This wastewater is often loaded with harmful chemicals and dyes, which flow untreated into rivers and streams, causing ecological damage and threatening human health.

The dyeing process uses an estimated 5 trillion litres of water and is responsible for the release of toxic chemicals, such as oil, phenol, dyes, pesticides, and heavy metals, into water sources. These pollutants have severe ecological and human health impacts, with traces of microfibres from synthetic sources found in fish and other seafood.

In addition to the pollution generated by the dyeing process, the production of synthetic fabrics also contributes to water contamination. The release of lead, arsenic, benzene, and other pollutants into water sources during synthetic fabric production poses further risks to the environment and human well-being.

The textile industry's water pollution is not limited to a single region but is a global issue. In Bangladesh, for instance, 1,500 billion litres of water are used annually in garment factories and mills, depleting groundwater resources and spreading contaminants. Similarly, in China, the textile industry's wastewater has been linked to high levels of antimony and other toxic elements in surface water, posing risks to drinking water safety and the local aquatic environment.

The impact of the textile industry on water pollution is not limited to the release of chemicals and dyes. The industry is also a significant producer of wastewater, as the wet processing of textiles, including scouring, bleaching, and finishing, accounts for a large proportion of water consumption in textile production. This wastewater often contains hazardous contaminants, such as acids, alkalis, dyes, toxic elements, and organic compounds, which are continuously discharged into the environment.

To address the issue of contaminated wastewater in the textile industry, researchers have developed innovative solutions. For example, a team from Khalifa University in Abu Dhabi has created a nanomaterial that can effectively remove dyes and other pollutants from industrial wastewater. This material, inspired by the "glue" that mussels use to attach to rocks, offers a promising approach to mitigating the environmental impact of textile wastewater.

Microfibre pollution

Microfibres are tiny strands of plastic that shed off synthetic fabrics like polyester, rayon, and nylon. They are released into the water system every time we wash our clothes in a washing machine and make their way into the oceans. According to Peter Ross, vice president of Ocean Wise in Vancouver, British Columbia, microfibers are one of the main causes of plastic pollution in the oceans.

Each laundry load of polyester clothes can discharge 700,000 microplastic fibres that can end up in the food chain. The majority of microplastics from textiles are released during the first few washes. Washing synthetic products leads to the accumulation of more than half a million tonnes of microplastics on the ocean floor every year.

A study by Imogen Napper, a marine scientist at the University of Plymouth, found that in a typical wash, 700,000 fibres could be released. Another study found that a single wash could release 1,900 fibres from a single synthetic garment, while another estimated that washing polyester fleece could release 1 million fibres.

Microplastics can be toxic to wildlife and can act like sponges, soaking up other toxins in the water. They can be ingested by marine wildlife and accumulate in the food chain. A recent study found that around 73% of fish caught at mid-ocean depths in the Northwest Atlantic had microplastics in their stomachs. Even the animals in the Mariana Trench, the deepest part of the ocean, are consuming microfibers.

To reduce microfiber pollution, a significant transformation is required in textile and clothing production to ensure that our clothing does not shed harmful plastic. Innovative infrastructure solutions are also needed to capture microfibers before they enter the ocean.

Some recommendations to reduce microfiber pollution include:

• Buying less clothing and opting for natural fibres like organic cotton when possible.
• Using a front-loading washing machine instead of a top-loading one, as they shed significantly fewer microfibers.
• Washing clothes less often and using cool water to avoid additional shedding caused by hot water breaking up the fibers.
• Avoiding washing clothes with solid items like shoes or backpacks, as heavy items cause more friction, leading to more fibers breaking during washing.
• Separating soft and heavy textiles to reduce agitation in the washer and dryer.
• Air-drying clothes instead of using a tumble dryer, as the dryer may also contribute to microfiber release.
• Reducing the rotation speed and washing time to prevent additional friction and chances for microfibers to escape.
• Using less detergent and avoiding bleach, with liquid detergent being the best option.
• Using a filter/microfiber system like the Guppyfriend bag, which catches microfibers and reduces agitation in the washer.

Toxic chemicals in dyes

The textile industry relies on dyes to colour fabrics, and today, synthetic dyes are predominantly used. However, these dyes contain toxic chemicals that have detrimental effects on the environment and human health, contributing significantly to water pollution.

The Rise of Synthetic Dyes

In the mid-19th century, the first synthetic dye was created from coal tar or aniline dye and petrochemicals. This innovation offered a strong, vivid, and lasting colour that could be easily replicated. Synthetic dyes provided manufacturers with a more efficient and cost-effective method of colouring fabrics compared to natural dyes. As a result, synthetic dyes quickly became the dominant choice, revolutionising the manufacturing process for dyeing clothes.

Toxic Chemicals in Synthetic Dyes

Azo dyes, which account for 60-70% of all dyes used, are a significant source of toxic chemicals. These dyes contain two nitrogen atoms between two carbon atoms, often derived from crude oil. While azo dyes produce bright and vibrant colours, they do not biodegrade and can break down into dangerous substances called aromatic amines. These amines have been linked to severe health issues, including liver and bladder cancer. Despite restrictions by the European Union, traces of these harmful amines are still found in clothing.

Environmental Impact of Toxic Dyes

The release of toxic dyes into waterways has devastating consequences for the environment. The chemicals in these dyes can affect soil fertility, deplete oxygen levels in waterways, impair photosynthesis in aquatic plants, and harm or kill animals in the area. Rivers in Bangladesh and China, for example, have turned black and red due to dye dumping by nearby factories.

Health Impact of Toxic Dyes

The toxic chemicals in synthetic dyes pose serious health risks for people working in the dyeing industry, including skin irritation, cancer, and neurotoxicity. Communities living near polluted waterways are also affected, reporting skin irritation, gastrointestinal problems, and fevers after exposure to contaminated water. Even consumers wearing synthetically dyed clothing are at risk, as the chemical residue in the garments can cause skin irritation and aggravate allergies.

Alternatives to Synthetic Dyes

Sustainable fashion brands are increasingly turning to natural dyes, derived from plants, minerals, or animals. These natural dyes have fewer health risks and are better for the environment as they are biodegradable and do not create chemical waste. However, natural dyes have limitations, such as limited colour options, fading, and higher costs.

Innovations in Dyeing Technology

To address the environmental and health impacts of toxic dyes, innovations in dyeing technology are emerging. For example, DyeCoo uses CO2 instead of water for the dyeing process, eliminating wastewater issues. Additionally, ColorZen has developed a patented system to pre-treat cotton, reducing the water, chemicals, and energy required for dyeing. These technologies offer a more sustainable future for the textile industry, reducing the harmful effects of toxic dyes on both the environment and human health.

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