Fast Fashion's Pollution Problem: What's The Real Cost?

Fast fashion refers to the mass production of cheap, trendy clothing to meet the latest consumer demands. It is a booming industry, with retailers growing by 9.7% between 2010 and 2015. However, the environmental impact of fast fashion is significant, with the industry being one of the biggest polluters in the world, second only to oil. The fast fashion industry contributes to water and air pollution, land degradation, greenhouse gas emissions, and the use of massive amounts of water and energy. The production of synthetic fibres, favoured by fast fashion brands, leads to microplastic pollution in our oceans, which poses a threat to marine life and human health. The environmental consequences of fast fashion are severe, and the need for more sustainable practices and conscious consumption is crucial to address this growing issue.

Fast fashion's environmental impact

Fast fashion refers to the mass production of cheap, disposable clothing that copies the latest catwalk styles and is quickly pumped through stores to maximise current trends. It is a relatively recent phenomenon, but its rapid expansion over a short time is deeply concerning from a sustainability perspective. Fast fashion retailers like Zara, Forever 21, and H&M have grown by 9.7% between 2010 and 2015.

The environmental impact of fast fashion is significant. The clothing and textile industry is depleting non-renewable resources, emitting huge quantities of greenhouse gases, and using massive quantities of energy, chemicals, and water. It is the second-biggest consumer of water, requiring about 700 gallons to produce one cotton shirt and 2,000 gallons of water to produce a pair of jeans. The industry also dries up water sources and pollutes rivers and streams, as 85% of all textiles go to dumps each year. Even the simple act of washing synthetic clothes is harmful, as it releases 500,000 tons of microfibres into the ocean each year, equivalent to 50 billion plastic bottles.

The production of synthetic fibres like polyester, nylon, and acrylic is an energy-intensive process that requires large amounts of fossil fuels like petroleum. These fabrics break down into microplastics, tiny non-biodegradable fragments that pollute the oceans and pose a threat to marine life and human health. A 2017 report from the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) estimated that 35% of all microplastics in the ocean come from washing synthetic textiles.

The fast fashion industry also contributes to land degradation and air and water pollution, especially in developing nations that rarely follow environmental regulations. China, for example, is a major producer of fast fashion but is notorious for land degradation and air and water pollution.

The environmental damage caused by the fashion industry is increasing as the industry grows. It is currently responsible for more annual carbon emissions than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. If the industry maintains its course, an increase of 50% in greenhouse gas emissions is expected within a decade.

The use of synthetic materials

The fast fashion industry is responsible for significant environmental damage. It is the second-largest consumer of water, with the fashion industry using 93 billion cubic meters of water, enough to meet the consumption needs of five million people. It is also responsible for 10% of global CO2 emissions, more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined.

The fast fashion business model is designed to pump out cheaply produced and priced garments that quickly capitalise on current fashion trends. This has led to a destructive buy-throw-away cycle, with styles changing faster than ever and increasing supply and demand pressures. As a result, huge amounts of discarded clothing end up in landfills, with 57% of all discarded clothing being landfilled or incinerated. The burning of landfills releases toxic substances and poisonous gases, causing public health and environmental dangers to nearby communities.

The social and environmental impact of the fast fashion industry has led to a reaction in the form of slow fashion, which advocates for manufacturing that respects people, the environment, and animals. Companies are being encouraged to design, test, and invest in business models that reuse clothes and maximise their useful life. Consumers are also becoming more conscious of the impact of their purchasing decisions and are demanding change from their favourite brands.

Textile waste and landfills

The fashion industry is one of the biggest in the world, accounting for 2% of global Gross Domestic Product (GDP). Unfortunately, it is also one of the biggest polluters in the world, second only to oil. The fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global CO2 emissions, more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. It is also the second-biggest consumer of water, requiring about 700 gallons to produce one cotton shirt and 2,000 gallons of water to produce a pair of jeans.

Textile waste is a significant contributor to the environmental impact of the fashion industry. In 2018, 17 million tons of textile waste ended up in landfills, according to data from the Environmental Protection Agency, making up 5.8% of the total municipal solid waste (MSW) generation that year. The average US consumer throws away approximately 81.5 pounds of clothes annually, leading to an estimated 11.3 million tons of textile waste in America alone. This waste is not just clothing but also includes furniture, carpets, tires, footwear, and other nondurable goods such as sheets and towels.

The recycling rate for all textiles was 14.7% in 2018, with 2.5 million tons recycled. However, even some of the recycled textiles end up in landfills due to less advanced waste management systems in other countries. Within the US, the recycling rate for textiles in clothing and footwear was 13% in 2018, while the rate for items such as sheets and pillowcases was 15.8%. The total amount of textiles in MSW combusted in 2018 was 3.2 million tons, or 9.3% of MSW combusted with energy recovery.

The low recycling rates and high landfill rates of textiles are concerning, given the long time it takes for textiles to decompose in landfills. Textiles can take up to 200+ years to decompose, and during the decomposition process, they generate greenhouse methane gas and leach toxic chemicals and dyes into the groundwater and soil. The environmental impact of textile waste is further compounded by the use of synthetic fibers in the fashion industry, such as polyester, nylon, and acrylic, which can take hundreds of years to biodegrade and release microplastics into the ocean when washed.

Water pollution and scarcity

Textile dyeing and finishing are major contributors to water pollution in the fashion industry, accounting for over 20% of global industrial water pollution due to the use of toxic and hazardous chemicals. The dyeing process releases colorants and harmful chemicals into wastewater, which is often dumped into ditches, streams, or rivers without treatment, contaminating water sources and causing detrimental effects on aquatic life and ecosystems. The fashion industry's reliance on natural fabrics like cotton also contributes to water scarcity and pollution, as cotton requires large amounts of water for irrigation and treatment, depleting local freshwater and groundwater resources. The use of pesticides and fertilizers to increase cotton output further pollutes water sources and poses threats to local biodiversity and human health.

The tanning process for leather production is another source of water pollution in the fashion industry. The chemicals used, including mineral salts, formaldehyde, coal-tar derivatives, and various oils and dyes, are not biodegradable and contaminate water sources. Additionally, the washing of synthetic clothing releases microfibers into the oceans, with an estimated 500,000 tons of microfibers discarded annually. These microfibers can be ingested by marine animals and work their way up the food chain, even ending up in human food sources.

The fast-fashion industry's unsustainable production practices, including the dumping of untreated wastewater and the overconsumption of water, have detrimental effects on the environment and human health. Companies need to focus on reducing water use and contamination, improving sustainability, and embracing circular economy practices to address these issues effectively.

Labour conditions and human rights

The fast fashion business model has been criticised for its exploitation of human labour. The pressure to produce large quantities of clothing at low prices has led to the dangerous exploitation of the labour force. Corporations operating in the fast-fashion industry often work with tight profit margins, and the squeeze on costs is most acutely felt by workers at the bottom of the supply chain.

In the 1990s, Nike faced criticism for its use of "slave wages, forced overtime, and arbitrary abuse". Since then, numerous reports of workplace abuse against textile workers have come to light. In labour markets throughout Asia, including Bangladesh and China, exploitative working conditions, including discrimination, harassment, child labour, forced labour and unsafe workplaces, are not uncommon.

In 2013, the Rana Plaza building in Bangladesh collapsed, killing more than 1,100 textile workers. The underlying conditions that led to the disaster remain entrenched in textile supply chains worldwide.

To prevent further damage to garment workers, some have argued that legislation is needed to ensure fair wages and corporate responsibility for supply chain management. It is imperative to address and resolve the human rights violations occurring as a result of fast fashion.

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